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iJoilRNC-Y 
[B'C51rJ1[0^'^<^ IADIC6 



Travf.lf.rs' Pictorial Series, Issued yuARTERLV. Price, S2.00 fer Year. Vol. 1. No. i.. May. 1895. 
Entcrc.i ut the I'.)s(..mce, CliiciKo, a.s second-cl.iss nwitter. 




A Typical Chicago Street. 



AN UNATTENDED JOURNEY 



Ten Thousand Miles 



BY RAIL 



A Tour by Four Young Ladies 



Fkom the Lakes . Across the Prairies . Over the Rockies . Through 

THE Deserts . Among the Sierras . To the Pacific Coast 

A Souvenir of Transcontinental Travel 

Richly Illustrated 



^ 



ituUt^ujvoU^ 




CHICAGO 

THE WHITE CITY ART COMPANY 

1895 



Copyright, 1895, 

By The White City Art Company, 

Chicago. 



PRESS OF 

MCCLUER PRINTING COMPANY 

CHICAGO 



A LEGEND BY WAY OF PREFACE. 




|HERE is a Celtic legend which relates that in the gold- 
en age of chivalr}' a maiden, nnattended and bearing 
a wand in her hand surmounted by a diamond of great 
price, walked unharmed through the length and breadth of 
Ireland. This legend is cherished by all loyal Celts as an 
illustration of the courage and purity of their women and of 
the honor and honesty of their men. 

In these modern days it would be rash for us to boast 
that such an experience could find a duplicate, yet, in a sense, 
it is duplicated in a great many instances every week in every 
month of every year. The environment is of course different, 
but in this little story of a spring time journey, we ma\- find set 
down the experiences of four young ladies who crossed the 
continent unattended by male escort and met on every hand 
most courteous treatment and most kindly counsel and found 
in all their travels no one to molest them or to make them 
afraid. 

Such a journey as that, the incidents of which are here re- 
corded, can be taken at any time by anybody and so thor- 
oughly systematized are the methods of transportation and so 
perfect the arrangements for personal safety and comfort that 
a truthful relation of the experiences of any one tour may be 
taken as a faithful representation of what every one may ex- 
pect to experience under like circumstances. 

Faithfulness in the statement of facts is claimed for this 
narrative and the reader of this little book can rely on the ac- 
curacy of what is herein set down. The object of the writer 
has been to give the traveler, however learned in the litera- 
ture of the road or, on the contrary, however inexperienced in 
the matter of journeying, such information as will prove of 



value and prepare the way for an intelligent and enjoyable 
trip across the continent. 

The illustrations with which this work is embellished are 
all made expressly for this book, from photographs taken by 
special artists from the most striking of the objects of inter- 
est which abound to a most remarkable extent along the lines 
of travel herein described. 

The reader is referred to the final pages of this book for 
special indexes and valuable tables of statistics. 

The author wishes to give credit in this place to the 
photographic artists whose work is represented by the illus- 
trations which add so much of value to this record of travel. 
The photographs were made by the artists whose names are 
appended : W. H. Jackson, C. R. Savage, Lock and Peter- 
son, Hook Photo. Co., O. F. Tyler & Co., W. R. Cross and 
John A Lowel and Co. 

Every tourist who makes the trip across the continent 
desires to secure souvenirs of the journey and knowing this 
fact the author has endeavored to make this volume such a 
record of facts and such a collection of beautiful, accurate, 
and attractive views that it will be recognized by all as a most 
appropriate and interesting souvenir of the transcontinental 
journey. 



CHAPTER I. 



How We Got to Denver. 

" From land of lakes to land of f;old, 
From meadow lands to mountains eld, 
Toward the setting sun we fly, 
My bonnie Jane and I." 

— 0!d Song 



^g|T all came about naturally enough and yet it was not 
exactl}' the conventional thing to do." The speaker 
was a young society lady and she was relating to a 
friend the circumstances which led up to the taking of a 
pleasure trip of ten thousand miles, from Chicago to San 
Francisco and return, including side journeys to places of 
interest en route across the continent. The unconventional 
part of the journey lay in the fact that it was taken by four 
young ladies entirely without the attendance of gentlemen 
escort and because of this fact they had called it their " Un- 
attended Journey." 

"It was a trip for health and pleasure, and as my father 
was exasperatingly well and exasperatingly bus_\-, he couldn't 
attend me, hence I must either go alone or not at all. In this 
emergency I opened correspondence with a friend and sent a 
letter something like the following : 

Chicago, III 
Dear Joan: — I'm planning a trip to California. You in Denver are so 
near that haven of rest that you can go with me just as easy as net. The 

question is will you do it ? 

Your friend, 

Judith. 

" The answer came back to me in four days and was as 
follows : 

Dear Judith: — ifours received. Will I take a trip to California with 
you ? Won't I ! Your friend 

Joan. 



p. S. I've asked dear Julia, she's living in St. Louis now, to join us. 
She'll do it sure. Can't you find a fourth, it's so much more cheerful to 
have a quartette, then we can take a section all to ourselves in the sleeper, 
and there won't be any horrid man to sit in the front seat with his back to 
the engine and stare us out of countenance; we can play whist without 
a dummy, we can order two portions of roast duck at a la carte dinners and 
have enough for four We can buy four apples for a dime and not become 
deadly enemies over the division of the fourth, as we'd be sure to do if there 
were three of us in the party. Take my word for it we'll have a much bet- 
ter time as a quartette. ' There's luck in odd numbers, says Rory O'More.' 

Your chum, 

Joan. 

"I saw the force of Joan's argument and after some diplo- 
matic correspondence induced Jennie B., an old school friend 
of mine, residing in Omalia, to join our party. So it was set- 
tled that Joan, Julia, Judith and Jennie should make this 
"unattended journe)." 

" Quite a party of jays." 

" Do you mean it? No, I remember 5^ou never use slang, 
so I'll forgive you. We arranged it so that we should make 
our rendezvous the Brown Palace Hotel in Denver, and from 
that center city of the mid continent continue our journey to 
the western rim washed by the waves of the Pacific Ocean. 

" In solemn conclave one bright spring day we met at 
Denver in a private parlor of the Brown Palace Hotel, which 
by the way is well worthy of its name, for it is a palace of 
bronze, onyx, and dark pink sandstone, and there we formed 
a commune by the rules of which each member was bound 
to observe the requirements of liberty, equality and fraternity. 
Everything was to be held in common, no one was allowed 
under any pretext whatever to keep any information concealed 
upon her person, and if any one should by accident see any- 
thing the others hadn't seen, she must at the first opportunity 
tell the rest of us all about it. Thus it happened, that in order 
to start fair, I had to describe the journey from Chicago to 
Denver via the Burlington. Jennie related what she had 
observed in her trip from Omaha to Denver, over the Union 
Pacific, and Julia told the story of her experience en route 
from St. L.ouis to our place of meeting: 




Fall River Estes Park, Cc^lorado. Burlington Route, 
" Chicago to Denver ! It's a long cr}' from the city on 
the lake to the city by the mountains, but actually, girls, it 
seemed more of a task to get from our house on Michigan 
Avenue to the Union depot in Chicago, than to make all the 
rest of the journe}'. 

"I felt like the little girl in the stor}^ who said she rode a 
'little way in the cars and all the rest of the way in the 
wagon.' I wanted papa to buy my ticket, check my baggage, 
order a carriage, and attend to all the preliminaries of start- 
ing, but he coolly informed me that, as this was to be an un- 
attended journey, the sooner I began to look after my own 
affairs the sooner my own affairs would be looked after by 
me. I actually believe he thought I'd give up the journey 
concerning which he had never shown any marked degree of 
enthusiasm, but he was very much mistaken as I respectfully, 
but firmly informed him. 

" I'll find out all about it before night, papa," said I. 
"Thank goodness I've got a tongue." 



'' Only one ? " said he. 

I declined to notice this remark and merely said, -' This 
trip has been phuined in a broad, general way and now I'm 
going to examine into the minute but necessary details." 

"If a woman will she will, 
You may depend on't, 
And if she won't she won't, 
Why that's the end on't." 

chanted my unfeeling parent, as he lighted a cigar and started 
off down town for his office. It wasn't long before the dark 
villain pursued him and I found myself standing with palpi- 
tating heart in front of the Burlington ticket office, corner of 
Clark and Adams Streets. I did hate to make the plunge 
and walked on half a block to gather courage for the under- 
taking; feeling braver I walked back again and stood in front 
of the entrance only to find myself more reluctant than ever 
to open the door. Then, like the little girl who disliked a 




Among the Foot-Hills. Estes Park, Colorado. Burmnoton KorxK 

13 




^ EsTES Cone, Estes Park, Colorado. Burlington Route. 

cold bath, I said 'rats! ' and scared myself in. A nice young 
gentleman came forward and asked what he could do for me. 

"Is the President of the road in?" I asked as noncha- 
lantly as I could. 

"No, Miss, this is not the President's office, but if you 
wish to purchase tickets or make any inquiry as to rates or 
routes I shall be happ)' to assist you." 

" That }'Oung man, girls, must have been a mind reader. 
How else could he discover that I didn't want to see the 
President. I knew at once that there wasn't any use in try- 
ing to deceive him so I told him all about the unattended 
journe)', and the way he helped me out was just too lovely 
for anything. 

"First he sold me a ticket with a great number of coupons 
to it, and every coupon stamped on the back with a cunning 
little red circle filled with big initial letters and some figures, 
and then he folded it up in a most miraculous manner so that 
it looked like an accordion in a state of collapse. As you know 

14 




)^:^^- 






Devil's Slide. Union Pacific System, near Ogden. 
15 




Tunnel No. 3, Weber Canon. Utah, on Union Pacific System. 
by experience with your own tickets, these folds were so art- 
fully made that never by either the greatest care or merest 
accident could the uninitiated, after unfolding it once, ever 
fold it up in its original shape. 

"This ticket was good for a length of time amply suffi- 
cient for an extended stay on the Pacific Coast, allowed stop 
over privileges, as the young man explained 'here, there and 
everywhere,' and imperatively demanded passage for the 
bearer on first-class trains. 

"After accomplishing this, he sold me a Pullman ticket to 
Denver and arranged for a man to call at my home to get and 
check my baggage, which was the end of all worry about 
that. Then he engaged a carriage, which was to convey me 
later in the day down Michigan Avenue, across town and 
over the bridge to the Union depot. 

"After dinner, that evening, papa looked across the 
table at me with a superior smile and said, 'Well, my d-ear, 
when do you depart on this unattended ridiculosity ? ' 

16 



"In about an liour " I replied, in my most businesslike 
traveling man tone. Girls, I just wisb you could have seen 
his face when I said that. He insisted on going with me to 
the train, though I assured him it wasn't at all necessary, but 
all the same I was very glad to have him with me, antl when 
he kissed me good by at the station with moistened eyes, 
there was a lump in my throat, and I too, I m.ust confess, shed 
some unmanly tears. But it' i)itporte, as we used to sa}' in 
boarding school, when we knew French and everything else 
under the sun, much better than we'll ever know anything 
again. Off went the train and I felt that now, indeed, the 
unattended journe}^ was begun. 

'•Pullman cars, like tall silk hats, have a strong family re- 
semblance, and the sleeper to which I had been allotted was 
no exception to the rule. I never could tell papa's spring 
hat from liis autumn head gear, when both were newly 
ironed, and I have never learned the marks of individuality 




1 >. ,, 



17 




From the Union Depot up Seventeenth Street, Denver, Coi.l 
Population, 175,000. Altitude, 5 285 Feet. 



18 



which differentiate the Pulhnan, "Azimuth" from tlie Pull- 
man " Zenith," or the " Baalbec " from the "Cavilero." And 
yet there are differences. Its the atmosphere literall}- and 
figuratively, a hot car, a cold car, a careless conductor, an 
indifferent porter, make all the difference in one's enjoyment 
of a journey. These elements of discomfort were absent in 
the through- to-Denver coach on the Burlington Flyer, and, 
with a clear conscience, a comfortable couch and a sense 




Cathedrai. Spires. Garden of the Gods, near Manitou, Colo. 
of safety and protection I slept the sleep of the just, while 
the train thundered along at the rate of fifty miles an hour 
toward the Missouri river, on the western bank of which I 
was to meet my dear Jennie. 

"What a lovely peroration," exclaimed Jennie. 

"Don't interrupt the speaker," said Joan. 

"Silence in the coaht," murmured Julia, in her soft 
southern voice, and with such a funny attempt at judicial 

19 




Balanced Rock, Garden of the Gods, Manitou, Colo. 

Sternness that we all laughed heartily, after which I took up 
the broken thread of m}^ stor3\ 

"I was dreaming that I had found 'Aladdin's Lamp, 'and 
had summoned the Genie, who appeared in the shape of a 
giant Nubian, with coal black skin and glowing e3es, and made 
me a most humble salaam, saj'ing : 

"What askest thou of thy slave and the slave of the 
lamp ? " 

"Sing me," said I, "the song that Israfael sings to the 
angels in Paradise." 

" Tlien the Nubian opened his mouth and I heard an awful 




Tui, (Ji:ave of H. H. CIIE^■KN^^ \i ' ■ 
Colorado Springs. 



\| II, ES FROM 



voice chanting 'La-a-st ca-11 for breakfast in the dining 
c-a-a-r a-h-e-a-d. L-a-s-t c-a-1-1 for b-r-e-a-k f-a-s t,' and I 
awoke and I knew it was a dream. I realized also that my 
breakfast would be nothing but a dream if I wasted any more 
time, and making a hasty toilet, I hurried into the dining car 
ahead. Oh, the comfort of a good warm breakfast in one of 
those first-class hotels on wheels, a well-conducted dining 
car ! Glimpses of the flying landscape without ; of the early 
birds who tried to catch the speeding train as if they were 
under the impression that it must be the succulent worm which 
the proverb promises to all early birds; of the bright spring 
sunshine gilding the earth with glory ; of the sky, blue and 
cloudless and serene, and within; the sheen of polished silver, 
the shimmer of snowy linen, the delicate aroma of delicious 
coffee, the polite solicitude of ebony hued servants, the abun- 
dance of luscious fruits from all lands temperate and tropic, 




Coo Railroap up Pike's Peak, Manitou, Colo. 
24 




Pike's Peak, Cog Wheel R. R. Timber Line. ^ 
and the presence on demand of every luxury in the way of 
tempting and appetizing food. 

" Hear, hear ! " cried Jennie, "why don't 30U compose a 
poem about that breakfast?" 

"She cahn't," said Julia. 

" Perhaps jj'^w can," said I loftily. 

"Of coahse I can," replied Julia, "and I will ; 

Of all the things, I do decla'h, 
The finest thing I evah saw, 
Was breakfast in a dining cah. 

Now ! What do you think of that ? " 

" A great deal of truth but not a bit of poetry. Now don't 
interrupt me, that's a good girl, or I'll never get through my 
story. 

" After breakfast I returned to my car, found that the por- 
ter had made up the section, dusted the seats, put all of my 
little belongings in neat and convenient shape and left an 
extra pillow ready for my use. 

25 







Mother Judy, Monument Park, g Miles from Colorado Springs, Colo. 

26 




Summit of Pike's Peak, SS Miles from Denver. Ele\ation 14.714 feet 

"What can one do on the Burlington Flyer en roi/te across 
the continent ? Anything, everything, except to step off and 
take a walk. The views from the car window are ever chang- 
ing, always entertaining. The scenerj' of Illinois and Iowa, 
through which States the line extends to the Missouri river, is 
interesting and suggests pleasant thoughts giving one a wide- 
liorizoned idea of the beautj^ and productiveness of these two 
commonwealths. The broad well-tilled acres, the large com- 
fortable farm houses, almost manorial in appearance, the 
green wheat fields, the waving corn, the woodlands casting 
grateful glooms of shade, the rolling hills growing bolder as 
the murky flood of the Missouri is approached, the wide 
prairies, giving glimpses through dotting, dimpling groves of 
the distant, dim horizon; all these one beholds for a moment, 
loses in a moment and finds again, repeated with endless 
variations the next moment. This flepting panorama re- 
minds me of the song about the bubbles : 



Bubbles light, bubbles bright 

See them come and go; 
Airy, fairy dainty things 

Floating to and fro; 
Golden in the sunshine, 

Silver in the shade, 
Lovely, fair and debonaire. 

Of such things dreams are made. 
We touch them and they vanish. 

Vanish like a dream, 
Fair and frail and fleeting, 

Shadows on a stream — 

" There I've forgotten the rest of the verse, girls, but 
that's enough to give you the idea." 

"But it's not enough and I insist on your remembering 
the rest," said Joan. 

"Can't do it, its gone, gone like — " 

" A bubble," murmured Julia. 




Pike's Peak Avenue. Coi.oradg Springs, Colo., on Denver & Rio 
Grande R. R. Antler's Hotel at Base of Pike's Peak. 

28 








Amphitheater, Williams Canon, Manitou. Colo. 
" I thank ihee, Jew, for teaching me that word." 
" My name is Julia," remarked that literal 5'oung lady, 
"and I'd thank you not to contract it to Ju," whereupon we 
all laughed and I was requested to " Mosey along" with my 
story. 

" There are two things that impressed me strongly dur- 
ing my journey from Chicago to Omaha, and these were the 
vast resources of the farming countr}^ and the prosperous and 
attractive appearance of the towns and cities along the route. 
Such a journey is a liberal education to an}^ one who has not 
already a competent knowledge of the richness and stability 
of this great nation. I have no doubt that there has been a 
reflex action in the building up of the country along the line 
of my touring. I mean by this that the railroad has assisted 
in the growth of the country and the richness of the country 
has assisted in the strengthening of the railroad. In any 
event the facts remain that there is no more prosperous 
country on the continent than that contained within the State 

30 




The Loop, Union Pacific, Denver iS; Gulf R. R.. neak Silver Plume, 

Colo. 



31 




Ute Paso. Manitou, Colo. The Old Indian Trail to the Springs. 




Green Lake, above Georgetown, Colo., Union Pacific, Denver & 
Gulf R. R., near the Loop. 



32 




Railroad Cut Thrown Out with One Blast, on the Florence & 
Cripple Creek R. R.' 



34 




Entrance to Cripple Creek Canon on the Florence & Cripple 
Creek R R. 

lines of Illinois and Iowa, and there is no better equipped 
and no more thoroughly satisfactory and efficient railroad 
than tlie Burlington. 

"These thoughts were superindiiced by a pleased stud}' 
of tlie landscape and the contemplation and discussion of a 
most excellent lunch in the dining car. Comfort of mind and 
body contribute to philosophical musings and I found myself 
pleased with my surroundings and at peace with all the 
world. When the evening shadows began to fall we crossed 
the Missouri river, broad and muddy and shallow, wandering 
carelessly along between widely separated bluffs with thou- 
sands of acres of cultivated bottom lands margining the stream 
but a few feet higher than the turbid flood. When the 
train rolled into the station at Omaha, there was Jennie on 
the platform waiting to greet me. You may be sure I was glad 
to see her, for say what you will, a journey all alone is a lone- 
some journey. 

35 



After talking eagerly together for a few minutes, Jennie 
said : 

" Now I must go ?" 

"Go?" 

" Yes, and get on board my train for Denver, I'll be there 
before you, for I'm going over the Union Pacific." 

" You'll not beat me there," said I, " for I shall speak to 
our conductor and have him jog the engineer's elbow. Good- 
bye, you mean thing, I thought I'd have }'our company the 
rest of the way." 

Jennie laughed and disappeared. Soon the train pulled 
out and we were off for the long night run through Nebraska. 
Before darkness settled down I got a good idea of the rich 
agricultural country through which we were passing. A 
good dinner and a sound night's sleep followed, and in the 
morning the porter told me we were in Colorado and would 




Sail Ship Rocks, Pi.atte Canon, near Denver, on the Denver, 
Leadville & Gunnison K. R. 

36 




Gold Miner's Cabin, Cripple Creek, Colo. 

soon reach Denver. The mountains were in view hke pale 
bhie clouds, dashed with white, the snows of eternal winter 
banked against the western horizon. A leisurely toilet fol- 
lowed by a leisurely breakfast, filled in the time, and before 
the da3'light was three hours old Denver was announced and 
the first long stage of my journey had been completed. 

" There, girls, my story is done and it's Jennie's turn to 
take up the moving tale." 

" Once upon a time," began Jennie, " there was a cruel 
Princess who delighted in torturing her subjects. She'd tell 
a story clear through to : ' and they were married and lived 
happily ever after ' and then she would ask some one else to 
finish the story." 

"What do you mean ?" interrupted Judith. 

" You know, well enough. You've told how you go to 
the cars, what you saw there and what you saw afterward — 
What have vou left me to tell ? " 



37 




Rotunda of Mineral Palace, Pueblo, Colo. The Palace was 
Erected at a Cost of $250,000, and Contains a Magnifi- 
cent Mineral Exhibit. 



3S 




'Old King Cole;" Statue made of d'l.oR.wo C^lAL, and Placed in 

THE IMlNERAL PaLACE, PUEbLO, CoLO. 



39 



" The truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth 
concerning 3'our journey from Omaha to Denver." 

" That's all ver}' well, but I think you spoke rather disre- 
spectfully of the Missouri river, and you didn't say one word 
about the Mississippi, either." 

"Well, we crossed that in the night at Burlington and I 
was sound asleep besides. Julia can tell us about that for 
I'm informed that it's quite an institution at St. Louis." 

" Institution, indeed ! " said Julia. "You'll speak dis- 
respectfully of the zodiac, next." 

", You're ail out of order," said Joan severelv, " Jennie 
has the floor." 

"Yes, I'm floored, that certain." 

"No levity, please, proceed with your narrative." 

"From Omaha to Denver sweep the great plains in such 
majestic vastness that only the mysterious expanse of the 
ocean can be used as a comparison. Not many years ago 
these broad savannahs were the grazing grounds for the 
buffalo and the antelope, and the home of the not less wild 
and much more savage red men. My father has chased the 
former and been chased by the latter on more than one occa- 
sion. Even the span of my life, not a long one, reaches back 
to the time when western Nebraska was a land weeks' distant 
from the river, and to be visited by men with arms in their 
hands and stout hearts in their bodies. Now, voila ! Behold .' 
Palace sleepers, vestibuled coaches, fast through trains, dining 
cars ! Piff ! we leave Omaha, Paff ! we're in Denver. 

"Now, the farmer and the followers of pastoral pursuits 
have occupied the land, and savage nature is yielding on 
every hand to the prowess of the plow." 

"Prowess of the plow is good," interrupted Judith sen- 
tentiously. 

" Yes, my dear^ the great western kingdom of Nebraska 
has tried it and pronounced it good. As one rides hour after 
hour beholding waving fields of maize on cither hand, extend- 
ing in undulating billows of grateful green to the far horizon's 
rim, one realizes that here corn is king. Of this kingdom in 

40 




Trout Fishing, Wagon Wheel Gap, Colo. 




Wagon Wheel Gap, Colo., on Denver & Rio Grande R. R Eleva- 
tion S,449 FEET. Distance from Denver, 311 miles. 
Health and Pleasure Resort. Hot Springs 
of Great Medicinal Qualities. 



41 



the west Omaha is the metropolis, Lincoln the capital, and 
the Union Pacific Railroad the via viaximus. 

" I never see the tassels of the corn nodding to the breeze 
like some ladies' favor on a Knightly crest, but there arises 
in my mind the figure of ]\Iondamin, and I recall Longfellow's 
beautiful poem of the origin of maize. You remember, girls, 
that wonderful fast of Hiawatha's, and how on the fourth day 
of his fasting he lay in his lodge by the Big- Sea- Water, ex- 
hausted, and his mind filled with vague dreams and weird 
imaginings. Then he gathered his remaining strength to- 
gether and gazed with undazzled eyes upon the splendors of 
the sunset. 

'And he saw a youth approaching 

Dressed in garments green and yellow, 

Coming through the purple twilight, 

Through the splendor of the sunset ; 

Plumes of green bent o'er his forehead, 

And his hair was soft and golden. 

Standing at the open doorway 

Long he looked at Hiawatha, 

Looked with pity and compassion 

On his wasted form and features, 

And in accents like the sighing 

Of the south wind in the treetops, 

Said he, " O, my Hiawatha! 

All your prayers are heard in heaven, 

For you pray not like the others ; 

Not for greater skill in hunting, 

Not for greater craft in fishing, 

Not for triumph in the battle, 

Not renown among the warriors, 

But for profit of the people, 

For advantage of the nations. 

From the Master of Life descending, ^' 

I, the friend of man, Mondamin, 

Come to warn you and instruct you 

How by struggle and by labor 

You shall gain what you have prayed for. 

Rise up from your bed of branches, 

Rise, O youth, and wrestle with me !' 

"And so they wrestled in the twilight and Hiawatha felt 

4^ 




ToLTEc Gorge, Denver & Rio Grande R. R., near Alamosa, Colo. 

Train is Shown Entering Tunnel near Summit of Peak at 

Right. Height of Walls, i.Soo feet. 



43 



new courage as he struggled with this strange foe and at 
length prevailed and overthrew him. 

' 'Tis enough ! ' then said Mondamin, 
Smiling upon Hiawatha, 
' But tomorrow when the sun sets, 
I will come again to try you ! ' 

" On the morrow, and yet again on the next da}', Mondamin 
came for the gladatorial trial with Hiawatha and was over- 
come on each occasion and after the third trial : 

'Then he smiled and said : ' To-morrow 

Is the last day of your conflict, 

Is the last day of your fasting. 

You will conquer and o'ercome me ; 

Make a bed for me to lie in, 

Where the rain may fall upon me, 

Where the sun may come and warm me ; 

Strip these garments, green and jellow, 

Strip this nodding plumage from me, 

Lay me in the earth and make it 

Soft and loose and light above me. 

Let no hand disturb my slumber, 

Let no weed nor worm molest me, 

Let not Kahgahee, the raven, 

Come to haunt me and molest me, 

Only come yourself to watch me, 

Till I wake, and start, and quicken, 

Till I leap into the sunshine.' 

" And on the seventh day of Hiawatha's fasting Mondamin 
came and the two wrestled for the last time together and 

' Suddenly upon the greensward 
All alone stood Hiawatha, 
Panting with his wild exertion. 
Palpitating with the struggle; 
And before him, breathless, lifeless, 
Lay the youth with hair disheveled. 
Dead he lay there in the sunset.' 

"The grave was made as was commanded and Hiawatha 
returned to his wigwam and broke his fast. But he did not 
forget the grave of Mondamin and day by day he went to 
watch and tend it. He kept the dark mould soft above it 
and drove away the predaceous crows and ravens. 

44 



' Till at length a small gr^en feather 
From the earth shot slowly upward, 
Then another and another, 
And before the summer ended, 
Stcod the maize in all its beauty, 
With its shining robes about it, 
And its long soft yellow tresses, 
And in rapture Hiawatha 
Cried aloud, " It is Mondamin!" 




Canon of the Rio Las Animas. D, & R G. R. R. Silverton Branch 

The Animas River is Shown Flowing between Walls 1,500 

Feet High. 



Yes, the friend of man, " Mondamin!' 

Then he called to old Nokomis 

And lagoo, the great boaster. 

Showed them where the maize was growing 

Told them of his wondrous vision, 

Of his wrestle and his triumph. 

Of his new gift to the nations. 

Which should be their food forever, 

And still later, when the Autumn 

46 



Changed the long, green leaves to yellow, 
And the soft and juicy kernels 
Grew like wampum hard and yellow, 
Then the ripened ears he gathered. 
Stripped the withered husks from off them 
As he once had stripped the wrestler, 
Gave the first Feast of Mondamin, 
And make known unto the people 
This new gift of the Great Spirit.' 




Needle Mountains from Animas Canon. Distance from Denver 

483 MILES. 



" I can't tell you about the manor houses that Judith de- 
scribes so enthusiastically, because manor houses are the prod- 
uct of generations and of national prosperit)', while this new 
west has not more than one generation to look back upon and 
its prosperity is too recent to manifest itself in such outward 
symbols. But I can tell you of the planting of roof trees that 
in the process of the suns shall shadow manor houses which 
shall shelter the descendants of the hardy pioneers. I can tell 

47 



you of broad and fertile acres won by toil from savage Nature, 
of baronial holdings, that every year grow in comeliness and 
value, of the building of a new State, the dawning of a new 
star, the birth of a new empire. 

"The j:)urney from Omaha to Denver is an object lesson 
of more than common significance. It opens the mind of the 
observing traveler to facts and fancies new and vast and sug- 
gestive. It shows how this great Nation has grown great. It is 
the first chapter of a marvelous historical romance. And further 
than this it sheds a new and brilliant light on the old poet's 
query : " What constitutes a State ? " Not moated walls, not 
iron gates, not pomp, not panoply, nor pageant, but men. 
Men with honest hearts, earnest souls, toiling hands, dauntless 
courage, who dare the dangers of the frontier, \v\\o endure the 
privations of new comers in a new land, and who, like the 
coral builders, give their lives as component parts of the 
magnificent structure which they help to rear. 

"After we had gotten well into Nebraska and had whirled 
through a number of prosperous looking towns and villages, 
the darkening landscape reminded me that night was approach- 
ing and the hour of dinner near at hand. I can bear testi- 
mony to the truth of Judith's report as to the excellence of 
the cuisine on board the diners, for the dinner the Union Pacific 
cooks furnished was most excellent and the service of the 
best. 

After a hearty meal, prolonged to an unconscionable 
length because of the unusual excellence of the viands pre- 
pared for my enjoyment and refreshment, I settled down in my 
section of the sleeper for a good night's rest and before long, 
was sleeping as soundly and as comfortably as if I was at 
home and not flying along on wings of steel and steam to- 
ward the Rocky Mountains and the land of gold and silver. 

In the morning I awoke in Colorado, and looking out of 
the window saw such an expanse of brown, gravel sprinkled 
plains that I wondered how man or beast could find subsist- 
ence on that seemingly sterile waste. But I also saw herds 
of cattle busily engaged in browsing and their plump sides 

48 




49 




Mt. Abrams on Toll Road Ironton to Ouray. 




Ouray, Coi.o , Gold and Silver Mining To\vn. Ele\-ation, 7,721 
Feet. Distance from Denver, 389 Miles. 



50 



showed that they had found something to eat that made them 
fat and comfortable. That something I learned was buffalo 
grass, a curly dry forage that looked but little more nutritious 
than the gravel among which it grew. But buffalo grass is 
more nutritious than the best of timothy and as fat producing 
as grain. I learned another fact, and that was that this grav- 
elly soil was as fertile as the famed valley of the Nile, when 
once it had been supplied with plenty of water by means of 
irriijatintr canals. 




Lake San Cristoval, near Lake Citv, Colo. 

As I was gazing out of the window a sedate looking 
young man shouted " Buffalo ! " Of course everybody 
scrambled to see the novel sight, when he added, "are said 
to be extinct." This joke never fails to work, and I am be- 
traying a confidence in telling you about it now. 

After breakfast the sedate young man tried to create an- 
other riot by shouting " The Rocky Mountains ! " but we 
were all too shrewd to be caught b}' his little game. Later 

51 




The Tree in the Rock, Florenxe & Cripple Creek R. R. 
52 




'Big Bend," ON THE Ouray AND SiLVERTo.N T-- i,:. i.. .. i- 

ROAD WAS MADE THROUGH MOUNTAINS AT AN EXPENSE OF SlOO.OOO 

A Mile, where Difficult Rock Work was Done. 



53 



on we discovered that we in reality liad been sold a second 
time, for the mountains actually were in sight and we had 
missed the opportunity of catching the first glimpse. Soon 
however we saw an undulating line of intenser blue drawn 
against the azure of the western sky and we knew that we be- 
held the great Snow}- Range of the Rocky Moim tains. 

"My journey from Omaha to Denver was nearly an accom- 
plished fact, and such had been the pleasure and comfort of 
the trip that I felt almost inclined to regret that the end was 
so near. Surely the railroads have reduced travel to its low- 
est terms of discomfort and rendered that which, in former 
days, was a subject of dread, a positive source of almost un- 
alloyed enjoyment. 

When the long vestibuled train of the Union Pacific 
stopped in the Denver Union Depot, the polite porter assisted 
me to disembark, and as I was crossing the pl'-tform I met 
Judith. 

"When did you get here?" I exclaimed. 

"A minute ago. When did 30U get here? " 

" Two minutes ago ! I told \ ou I'd be here first." 

"Nonsense ! " said Judith, "you merely got me to com- 
mit myself first, that's all," and so the question as to which 
of us made the best time is still res adjuditata. 

"Now, Julia, tell us about 3'our journey from St. Louis," 
said Joan. 

"Once upon a time-^" began Julia, whereupon Judith 
interrupted. 

" I rise to a point of order.'' 

" State your point," said Joan. 

" I object to the w'ord time. The railroads have annihi- 
lated it." 

" The objection is well taken," ruled Joan. 

"Well, I'm not so sure of that," said Jennie. " I know 
they make time on the railroads, for I lieard our conductor say 
the train was making good time, but I'll not dispute the 
point. Judith has said that I would tell you about the l\Iis- 
sissippi river, but I shan't do anything of the kind. Every- 

54 



body knows everything concerning the ' father of waters,' and 
the most striking thing about the river at St. Louis is the 
big bridge. 

" I left home on the through Burlington train and there's 

one thing about my journey that overtops anything you 

girls have told, and that thing is, that I took the train from 

the very largest Union Depot in the whole world ! " 

"How about the St. Pancras station, London?" 

" Its not in it, or rather it could be put in it and it 




Copyriflltfl l.y AV. II. Jackson. 

Cliff Dwellers' Home, Me>a Verde. Rio Grande Southern R. R. 

wouldn't stick out anywhere. The dimensions are something 
enormous and only equaled by those of the largest of the mag- 
nificent palaces that made the White Cit}' of the Columbian 
Exposition so glorious, and which now, alas! have fallen never 
to rise !again. We take great pride in our magnificent Union 
Depot, and in order that you may know that what I tell you 
is true liere are the comparative figures to support my state- 
ments : 

56 



St. Pancras, London, England 240 x 700 feet. 

Union Depot, Frankfort, Germany 552 x COO " 

Grand Central Depot, New York 200 x 750 " 

Union Depot, St. Louis 600 x 820 " 

'• I think I must have gotten into the very same sleeper, 
and patronized the very same diner tliat you girls have 
grown so enthusiastic about, for I am sure I liad the same 
courteous attention, the same elegant accommodations and the 
same delightful dinners. But of course, its nonsense to sav I 




Cliff Palace, Mesa Verde, Rio Grande Southern R. R 
had the same car, because, however fast it might go, it couldn't 
start from Chicago and St. Louis and Omaha and run over 
three different railroads at the same time. The fact that we 
are all so absolutely unanimous in our praises of the accom- 
modations that were placed at our command is the best of 
evidence that we chose wisely in regard to our lines of 
travel. 

"There was little of incident to mark my Hitting through 

57 



the good old State of Missouri, and whatever happened was 
no doubt the stuff that dreams are made of, for I must confess 
I slept soundly during that part of the journey as I left St. 
Louis in the evening and when I awoke in the morning I 
found that we had crossed the State line into Kansas. Jennie 
has delivered a very eloquent lecture on the past, present and 
future of Nebraska and all I could say about Kansas would 
be a repetition of her eulogium of her own State with the ex- 




BuRRO Train Transporting Timbers for the Mines. Silverton, Coi.o 

ception that to my mind Kansas is just that much more pref- 
erable to Nebraska as it is miles south of it." 

You're a true little Southerner," interrupted Jennie. 

"Lives there a man with soul so dead, 
Who never to himself hath said 
This is my own, my native land ?" 

quoted Julia and that was all the reply she vouchsafed to 
Jennie's remark. "I never passed a more enjoyable day 
than the one I spent on the Burlington train en route to 

58 




t)i'niK Looi'. Kio Grande Southern R. K. 
50 




The RoYiiL Gorge. Grand Canon of the Arkansas. On the Denver & 

Rin Grande R. R. Height of Walls, 2,627 feet. The 

Climax of Awful Grandeur. Length, 7 miles. 

Distance from Denver, 163 miles. 



60 



Denver. I read and 1 wrote, 1 looked at the scenery and 1 
sketched and I had a real jolly time with a handsome young 
commercial traveler who took the sleeper in the morning and 
got off some time in the afternoon. As he was leaving he 
said : 

" Allow me to thank you for the pleasant time 1 have 
had." 

"Not at all," said I. 




Upper Twin Lakes, near Leadville, Colo. Denver&Rio Grande K. R. 

" I'm so glad to have met you," said he. 

"Thank you," said I. 

"I hope jou have enjoyed it," said he. 

"Nowwas'nt that cheeky, girls?" 

"Oh, very much," said I. 

"I'm so glad I succeeded in pleasing you," said he. 

"Don't mention it. one is willing to talk to most anybody 
on the train," said 1, and will you believe it girls, the young 
man got mad and went off in a huff. 

6i 



"And I don't blame him " exclaimed Joan, "and as for 
you, it seems to me that }ou didn't study the scenery to any 
great extent." 

"The proper stud}' of mankind, is man," said Julia, and 
that seemed to settle the question. 

"Oiir train got into Denver in the morning exactly on 
time and I found Joan waiting to receive me at the station, 
and you two girls arrived at about the same time, and all four 
of us took a carriage and drove to the Brown Palace Hotel 
and here we all are, happy as larks and ready for future ex- 
periences and adventures." 




Entrance to Buown Palace. 



62 



CHAPTER II. 



Summer Resorts and Picturesque 
Scenery. 



Over the mountains of the raoon, 
With banter and bravado, 
Rode every knight, 
With sword bedioht, 
To land of Eldorado. 

—Ancient Ballad. 



^^plOW that we all are safely met here in Denver, what 
|)l^ y shall we do next?" This question was put to the 
quartette of unattended ones by Judith. I say tiie 
(piestion was put to the quartette because Judith addressed 
the query quite as much to herself as to the others. 

"I move that we do as the boy said he did when he went 
after the cows," said Joan. 

"And what did the boy say he did ? " 

"He said, ' First I go to the head of the lane and then I 
scatter.' We are at the head of the lane, I suggest that we 
scatter." 

" Explain." 

"Julia wants to see Clear Creek Canon and the Loop and 
I've promised to go with her. You, Judith, want to see 
Manitou and the Garden of the Gods." 

"And I'll go with her," interrupted Jennie. 

'< Very good," remarked Judith. "Its moved and sec- 
onded that we scatter, all in favor say 'yes' and nobody must 
say no." All voted " yes." 

"The question is carried unanimously. Scatter." 

The next morning the quartette of merr}' girls gathered 
in the ladies' waiting room of the Union depot and purchased 

63 















CURRICANTE NeEDLE BlACK CaNON OK THE Ci nm^qN, ON DeNVEK & 

Rio Grande R. R. Height of Walls, 2.500 feet. Length 
OF Canon, 14 miles. Distance from Denver, 350 miles. 

64 




65 




MoNIE CkISTU lIolEL Sai.ida, Colo. 

tickets for their excursion. Jennie and Judith going to Mani- 
tou over the Denver and Rio Grande, and Joan and Julia go- 
ing to Graymont, the terminus of a branch Hne of the Denver 
Union Pacific and Gulf passing through Clear Creek Canon 
and over the famous " Loop," with promises to meet at the 
Brown Palace on the evening of the succeeding day and there 
to recount the incidents of their outing. The young ladies 
departed happy in the hope of unalloyed enjoyment. And 
judging from the tone of their conversation when they met it 
is quite evident that this hope was not in vain. Behold them 
gathered the next evening around the table in their cosy par- 
lor at the Brown Palace. 

"Isn't Manitou charming?" asked Judith. 

" Did you ever see anything so beautiful as the Garden 
of the Gods ?" said Jennie. 

"Clear Creek Canon is just too lovely!" murmured 
JuHa. 

"And the Loop takes the cake!" exclaimed Joan. 

66 




Eagle River CA.\^i.\ Imroui.h Line Denver tV Kio (Iranpk K. K. 

Near Red Cliff. Mines and Tramways for Transhorting 

Ore Shown in the Engraving. Distance from 

Denver, 300 miles. 



67 




Mount of the Holy Cross. Near Leadville. On the Denver & 
Rio Grande R. R. 

"Get thee to a bakery," said Judith severel}-, "slang 
is not allowed here and don't 3'ou forget it." 

"Never mind the slang, girls, but tell us about the 
trip to Manitou," said Julia. 

" To start with we had the prettiest car to ride in that 
I ever saw used on a railroad for just a common everyday 
car. It had plate glass mirrors, raw silk curtains, ma- 
hogany pannels and an ebon}' porter. I've no doubt there 
were porcelain bath tubs and a gas range concealed 
in the car somewhere, for it discounted a firi de Steele apart- 
ment house in elegance. Don't talk to me about the ' wild 
and woolly West' after the splendors of that Rio Grande 
car ! The ride of eighty miles along the Front Range 
to Manitou was a most charming experience. The moun- 
tains were in constant view to our right and occasionally 
we caught a glimpse of the snow-crowned summit of Pike's 
Peak. Fifty miles West of Denver we came to Palmer 

68 




Rounding the Curve. Canon of Grand River. Denver & 
Rio Grande R R. 

Lake, a beautiful little sheet of water poised on the sum- 
mit of a spur of hills that extends eastward from the 
mountains into the plains and which has been given the 
local titlf of the Divide. The waters from this lake flow 
North into the Platte River and South into the Arkansas. 
Near the station is a pretty little village and here are 
man}' handsome summer residences of well to do people 
who find health, rest and pleasure among the pines and 
rocky palisades which render the place picturesque and at- 
tractive. Here too is located the popular Chatauqua of the 
West, with a railroad station of its own called Glen Park. 
Each stuiimer the assembly meets in this romantic spot, 
the members occupying permanent cottages or temporary 
abodes as they choose and holding a most instructive session 
devoted to the study of literary, musical, scientific and re- 
ligious subjects. A few miles beyond the Divide is Monu- 
ment Park in which one finds the strangest and most fan- 




Second J'unnel, Canon ok the Grand River. Denver & Rio 
Grande R. R. 



71 



tastic figures carved from the sandstone through the action 
of the elements. 

"When we reached Colorado Springs, a handsome town of 
some 12,000 inhabitants, we walked through the magnificent 
park which lies between the railroad station and the Antlers' 
Hotel. This park is shaded by innumerable trees and is 
made beautiful by shaven greensward and beds of carefully 
nurtured shrubs and flowers. The hotel is a gem of archi- 
tecture and we found its hospitality fully equal in every re- 
spect to its beauty of situation and construction. We took 
lunch at the Antlers' and engaged a carriage to take us six 
miles to the westward to Manitou Springs and the Garden 
of the Gods. We could have gone directly to Manitou by 
the railroad, or by electric car, but we preferred to drive as 
we desired to enjoy the view to its fullest extent. 

" The mountains towered before us with Pike's Peak in 
the center and old Cheyenne buttressing the southern termi- 
nus of this spur of the Front Range. A good, broad, well- 
kept road leads from Colorado Springs to Manitou with resi- 
dences and shops on either side so that it presents quite the 
appearance of a cit}' street. 

" Manitou Springs is the great watering place of the West. 
Nestled in the little valley among the mountains at the foot of 
Pike's Peak, sheltered from the winds and lying toward the ris- 
ing sun, blessed with springs of delicious health giving water, 
made picturesque by most varied and most lovely scenery and 
noted as the home of luxury and comfort because of its hotels 
magnificent in proportion and elegant in equipment, Manitou 
is indeed an ideal health and pleasure resort. The list of scenic 
attractions in and around Manitou is almost endless, but in 
order that you might get some faint idea of what can be seen 
there, I noted a few of the more prominent places worth vis- 
iting, and the distances you will have to drive from the village 
to reach them: 

Ute Pass and Rainbow Falls 1^ Miles. 

Garden of the Gods 3 " 

William's CaSon ^ ' ' 

72 




74 



Crystal Park 3 Miles. 

Glen Eyrie 5 

North Cheyenne Canon S'/i ' ' 

South Cheyenne Canon 9 " 

Seven Lakes (by horse trail) 9 

Summit of Pike's Peak (by cog railroad) 8 

Monument Park 9 

"In the two days which we spent at Manitou we visited 
Ute Pass, the Garden of the Gods, William's Canon, South 
Cheyenne Canon, Glen Eyrie and Summit of Pike's Peak. 
They were days of unalloyed delight, and I can't begin to 
tell you the half of what we saw. 

"After we had enjoyed a visit to the springs themselves, 
which are marvels in their way, and the waters of which are 
the most delicious I ever drank, we instructed our coachman 
to drive us to the Garden of the Gods. Leaving Manitou 
behind us and advancing toward Colorado Cit}', we turned 
sharply to the left, and found ourselves on the Buena Vista 
drive, a plainly marked road to the Garden of the Gods. The 
entrance to the Garden, approaching from Manitou, is through 
what may not inaptly be called a postern gate as compared 
with the entrance from the east through the Grand Gateway, 
made so familiar to eye and mind by photographs and de- 
scriptions. Entering from the west, we saw upon our right 
hand a wall of wind-worn rock crowned with hardy evergreens, 
while to our left stood the remarkable Balanced Rock, resting 
its hundreds of tons of weight upon a scanty base of a few 
feet. Pointing to this rock with his whip, while he reined up 
his horses with the other hand, the driver said: "See that 
rock, ladies ? Well now that's a curious freak of nature, 
isn't it ?" 

"Indeed it is," said I. 

"But the most curious thing about it you can't see," con- 
tinued the driver meditatively. 

"Why what is that ? " asked Judith innocently. 

This was the opportunity our Colorado Jehu was waiting 
for and assuming an air of critical solemnity he said : 

75 



"I don't know whether you'll believe it or not but its 
a frozen fact. I was the fust one to diskiver it, ma'm, and 
I find it blamed hard to make any one else believe it, but 
that's the way with all great diskiveries, look at the man 
who found out the world waz flat, didn't he have a time ! 
but he knowed it waz so, and everybody knows that it's so 
now. That rock, ma'm, revolves clar round on its pedestal 
onc't every year.'" 
" Oh driver ! " 

"Fact, ma'm I assure you, I'll prove it to you. See 
that little cross up thar on the side of the rock facing 
East?" 

" Yes." 

"Wall if you should come here exactly one year from 
to-day, you'd find that thar cross in exactly the same place 
facing East ! This proves that the rock has turned clar 
'round during the year and brought the cross back to what 
it started frum. Get up Charlie, get a move on you Billy," 
and touching the horses with his whip the driver sent them 
bowling down the gentle hill into the famous garden. 

" Please imagine a vast amphitheatre covering two 
thousand acres or more, walled in by a chain of tremen- 
dous rocks, mostly of red sandstone in beautiful and various 
shades. As we ride on we see here great hills of rock all 
tumbled together in every conceivable shape. Proceeding 
we behold a countless number of the strangest and weird- 
est figures imaginable, many of them being strikingly nat- 
ural and correct in shape, resembling men, women, cas- 
tles and many creatures of both land and sea. The 
crowning wonder of this home of wonders is the colossal 
eastern gateway towering more than three hundred feet 
above the roadway on each hand, leaving barely enough 
space to admit of the passage of a carriage. 

<' Imagine rocks rising straight out of the ground many 
feet wide and not more than two or three feet thick, tower- 
ing three liundred feet or more, all of a beautiful red sand- 
stone. Here are the Cathedral Spires, while yonder upon 

76 



a mighty rock, as if viewing the garden, stands the " Indian 
Maid." On every hand one sees towers, buttresses, pinnacles, 
slender spires and minarets of flashing coral color, but as 
we turn a projection we see a reef of rock, white as the 
driven snow. Imagine the contrast! Further on there is 
a beautiful mingling of various colors arid tints in mighty 
strata of rock. Truly this seems to have been the play- 
ground of the Titans, the Garden of the Gods. 

From the Garden we drove to South Cheyenne Canon. 




Long Bridge over the Grand River, at Grand Junction, Colo. 
Rio Grande Western R. R. 

This is a cleft in the heart of Old Cheyenne Mountain. We 
entered with a feeling of reverence and followed a winding 
path over rocks, between tall evergreens and across the rush- 
ing current of a brook, the waters of which boil and foam 
down the narrow channel. In this deep hollow only the 
noonday sun shines. Going up the caiion with the roar of 
the waters ahead and the winding path before us, the lofti- 

77 




Provo Falls, Utah. Rio Grande Western R R. 
78 



ness and savage wildness of the walls catch only a dizzying 
glance, but coming out their tops seem to touch the heavens 
and their height to be measu eless. The eye can liardly take 
in the vast height, and with the afternoon sun touching only 
the extreme tops, one realizes in what crevice and fissure of 
the rocks the canon winds. The narrow gorge ends in a 
round well of granite, down one side of which leaps, slides, 
foams and rushes the Seven Falls a series of cascades — 
seven in line, pouring the water from the melted snow above 
into this cup. 

"Above the waterfall, on the eastward slope of Cheyenne 
Mountain, is the grave of one of America's truest poets and 
most remarkable women, 'H. H.' Here the late Helen Hunt 
Jackson lies asleep among the scenes she loved. Cheyenne 
canon has henceforth for me a profounder meaning — its un- 
exampled beauty being supplemented by a sacred and tender 
memory. 

Oh, Cheyenne canon ! in thy dim defiles, 

Where gloams the light, as through cathedral aisles, 

Where flash and fall bright waters, pure as air. 

Where wild birds brood, wild blossoms bloom, and where 

The wind sings anthems through the darkling trees, 

A presence breathes the tenderest melodies. 

Songs that the finer ear of poets feel 
But do not hear, ethereal chords that steal 
Upon the soul as fragrance of the flowers. 
Unseen, unknown, from undiscovered bowers, 
Enwraps the senses with a deep delight, 
Pure as the stars and tender as the night. 

For here in Nature's arms there lies asleep 
One who loved nature with a passion deep, 
Who knew her language and who read her book. 
Who sang her music, which the bird, the brook. 
The vvinds, the woods, the mountains and the seas 
Chant ever, in commingling harmonies. 

Oh, Cheyenne canon ! through thy dim defiles 
The music floats as through cathedral aisles; 
The singer silent, but the song is heard 
In sigh of wind and carolling of bird, 

79 



All these the poet's melodies prolong, 

P'or nature now sings o'er her loved one's song. 

"Glen Eyrie was the next place of interest that we visited 
after beholding the beauties of Cheyenne Canon. The drive 
was one of pleasant interest, seven or eight miles to the 
northward among low lying hills and past the great gateway 
of the Garden of the Gods. The Glen contains the summer 
residence of the projector and first President of the Denver 
and Rio Grande railroad. It is a wilderness of beauty hidden 




Canon of Grand River. Rio Grande Western R. R. 
between the rose tinted rocks of Queen's Caiion. Trees and 
shrubs covered with clambering vines, make cool and shaded 
resorts for singing birds, and meandering through is a bab- 
bling mountain brook. Tall columnar rocks, similar to those 
in the Garden of the Gods abound, the most striking of which 
bears the title of the Major Domo. The summer residence 
is surrounded by handsome lawns and gardens, and the whole 
presents a restful retreat from tlie toil and turmoil of the 

work-a da}' world. 

80 



"After our visit to Glen Eyrie we returned to Colorado 
Springs, driving across the Mesa, which is a high tableland 
as level as a floor, extending from the Garden of the Gods to 
within a mile or two of the Springs. The view from the Mesa 
was most inspiring, embracing the whole range of mountains 
from Long's to Pike's Peak and thence as far south as the 
Spanish peaks, over one hundred miles distant. 

"We took dinner at the Antlers, which was served with all 
the elegance and perfection of detail that one might expect to 




Lookout Rocks, Canon of Grand River. Rio Grande Western R. R. 

find in the first-class hostelries of the great metropolitan cities 
of the East or Europe. We spent the night in this charming 
hotel, and I assure you, girls, that for comfort and elegance 
the Antlers '\s facile princeps.'" 

"Translate," exclaimed Joan, with the air of a tutor in 
Latin. 

"She means 'out of sight,' " said Julia. 

"I don't mean anything of the kind," replied Judith se- 

8i 




Half Tunnel, Canon of the Grand River. Rio Grande Western. 
verely, "except that everything unpleasant was out of sight at 
the Antlers." 

"Go on with your story or you'll never get through," said 
Joan. 

"The next morning we walked about Colorado Springs and 
found it a most beautiful little city made up of unusuall}' hand- 
some homes, and we learned that it was considered the most 
aristocratic and intelligent town in the West. Very many rich 
people live there, and society is of the best. After our walk 
we took the electric line to Manitou, bent on ascending the 
great peak. 

"Pike's Peak had challenged our curiosity ever since 
we beheld it from the train, a faint blue cloud on the hori- 
zon, long before we reached Denver. Now we were about 
to accept this challenge and achieve the conquest of this 
monarch of the Front Range. The cogwheel road from 
Manitou to the summit made our victory an easy task, sub- 

82 



stituting an element of novelty to take the place of that 
element of adventure which spiced the ascent on horseback 
in former days. The road is constructed in a most substan- 
tial manner, the ballast being of rock and the rails of the 
best of steel. Between the rails, in the centre of the track, 
extends the cogway, into which the cogwheels of the engine 
press, held in place b}^ the many tons weight of that great 
machine. 

"In making the ascent the engine pushes the coaches 
loaded with passengers up the steep incline, and in descend- 
ing backs down, holding the train from making too rapid 
progress under the influence of gravity. The conductor ex- 
plained all these matters to me very kindly before we began 
the upward journey, but aside from the fact that I was 
firmly convinced of the perfect safety of the trip, I can't 
remember the technicalities. Experience added to my con- 
fidence, and I am perfectly satisfied that an accident is an 
event that has been rendered practically impossible on this 
marvelous, mountain-climbing road. 

"We boarded the train at the station, which is near the 
famous Iron Ute Spring, and were soon making a steady and 
comparatively rapid ascent of the hills that lie at the foot of 
the great Peak. The track mounts steadily up the steep side 
of the ravine, so narrow that the wall of rock had to be 
blasted away to give room for the road. Sometimes a 
great shoulder of granite seems to cut off the track altogether, 
but the way opens as if by magic, sometimes a bridge at a 
dizzy height spans a chasm and echoes to the tread of our 
iron horse. A thick fog fills the chasm, out of it at times 
peer rocks so huge that from a single one could be built 
castles or capitols. Could we but have heard the thunder of 
their fall when the}' crushed down the steeps and tore away 
forests in their path ! As we ascend, the view to the east- 
ward over the plains widens and a glorious prospect meets 
our vision. The summit of the peak presents an area of about 
seventy acres of granite blocks, varying in size from that of a 
freight car to that of a pea. Below us are the clouds and we 

83 




The Knutsfokd Hutel. Salt Lake ("ir\, I'iah. 

watch the sheen of the sunbeams on their billowy upper sur- 
faces. Midway down the mountain slope they sway as do the 
waves of a wind swept sea. Suddenly like a drawn curtain, 
they roll away, and as from the height of another planet we 
look upon the majestic globe beneath. Mountains no longer 
rise but lie crouching at our feet, forests great and grim, be- 
come simply dark shadows in tlie distance. A city is 
abridged to tlie dimensions of a single square and a great 
river becomes a sinuous line of darker green on the lighter 
verdure of the distant prairies. 

"After this vision from the top of the world, we felt that 
the acme of grandeur had been reached, and with a sigh over 
the glory that we must leave behind us, we returned to our 
car and made the descent. Taking an afternoon train from 
Colorado Springs, we reached Denver in time for dinner. 

"And now you know all about our journey to the Springs 
and what we saw there. Tell us what }ou saw." 

85 




American Natural Gas and Oil Go's Wells. Output 12,000 000 
GuBic Feet Daily. Great Salt Lake, Utah. 

Joan looked at Julia and Julia looked at Joan, each 
awaiting for the other to speak. Finally Julia said: "I 
think Joan ought to be the orator on this occasion." 

"Why ? " asked Joan. 

"For three reasons; first, you live in Denver, and are 
familiar with the subject under discussion ; second, I have 
been the narrator on another occasion ; thirdly, because.'" 

"The last reason settles it, I'll tell the story," said Joan, 
smiling. 

"The trip from Denver to the Loop is a favorite excur- 
sion with our people during tlie summer months. Every 
Sunday long trains loaded with excursionists pull out of the 
Union Depot bound for Clear Creek Canon and the Loop. 
Strangers in Colorado are always anxious to see the wonders 
that exist upon this branch of the Denver, Union Pacific & 
Gulf Railway, which, aside from being a great freight route 

87 




Garfield Beach and Great Salt Lake, Utah, from the Cave, on 
Union Pacific System. 




Castilla Springs Health Resort, Spanish Fork Canon. 
Rio Grande Western R. R. 



88 



to .and from the gold, silver and coal mines, is also a truly 
remarkable scenic line. 

"The little town of Golden was soon reached, and just 
beyond we entered Clear Creek Caiion. At Forks Creek the 
line branches, one track running up to the famous mining 
towns of Central City and Black Hawk, and the other to 
Georgetown, Graymont and the Loop. On the latter is 
Idaho Springs, a famous health resort in the heart of the 
mountains. 








I.l|?,. f. - <: .V^.:J U/^jy I i -^ .^1^ 





Main Street, Ogden, Utah, on Union Pacific System. 

"Clear Creek Cafion is about an hour's ride from Denver. 
The railroad until it reaches the foothills, runs through fields 
as green and past farmhouses as pleasant as any of which the 
older States can boast. 

" The canon is a marvelous cleft, worn through the solid 
rock by Clear Creek, dashing and roaring near the track, 
which crosses it at short intervals. Its sides, time-worn in a 
thousand grotesque forms, rise from 500 to 1,500 feet, mak- 

89 



ing the sky appear a mere narrow strip of the deepest blue. 
In glaces there are great side canons through which rivulets 
come silvering down as the sunlight strikes across the somber 
shadows. Trees grow thick in places, and crown a portion of 
the heights. 

" After leaving Georgetown we were on the ^i/i vive ior 
we knew that we were approaching the famous 'loop'. Soon 
the train began a steep ascent among the hills and the curves 
became shorter and more abrupt. The way for the track 
was carved through solid rock and skirted the sides of moun- 
tains that lost their crests in snow. In the valley below we 
could see the flashing waters of Clear Creek. Past Devil's 
Gate and Bridal Veil Falls the engine labored upward. Look- 
ing directly above we saw a railroad track on a high iron 
bridge overspanning the track almost at right angles, but in 
the form of a crescent." Julia, wonderingly inquired : 

" 'What road is that above?' 

"In a few moments we were on the bridge, and Juli?, 
looking down, caught sight of another track and asked: 
* What road is that below ? ' 

" Tlien I condescended to explain that they were both 
one and the same track. From the top six tracks apparent!}' 
belonging to different lines were seen. Then Julia realized 
that she had just ridden over the famous loop — one of four in 
existence. There is one on the Southern Pacific Railroad, 
one in Switzerland, and one in the Andes of South America, 
but this is the most complex of them all. The bridge we 
crossed is 300 feet long and 8G feet high. From Georgetown 
it can be seen one way nestled in the mountains; looking at it 
from the other way there seems to be nothing but a confusion 
of tracks. 

" It was a remarkable climb from here to the Big Fill, 
which is 7(j feet high, but the curve is too sharp to admit of 
a bridge, and comes nearer being a duplication of ' The 
Loop.' Georgetown was still in sight beyond the three 
parallel tracks of 'The Loop.' Looking down the final 
curve we saw a wealth of track, but it dodged hither and 

90 




Liberty Cap. Mammoth Hot Springs. Yellowstone Park reached 
VIA Union Pacific System. 



91 




Ame;- AT'ini-mf.nt. Shkr-man, Wyo., on the ('NinN Pacific System. 

thither, no portion seemingly having any special relation to 
its neighbor; occasionally the entire trackage came into view 
at once. After passing 'The Loop ' and Silver Plume, 
Graymont, the terminus of the railway was reached. 

"Our return to Denver was made enjoyable by the 
renewed opportimity it gave us to study the beauty and 
grandeur of the marvelous canon down which rush and swirl 
the waters of Clear Creek." 

"And what did you do to-day?" asked Judith. 

"Visited places of interest in Denver," replied Julia, " and 
a very pleasant day we have had too. We went to one of 
the many great smelters which are to be found in the suburbs 
and got some idea how gold and silver are extracted from 
the unpromising rocks which are thrown into the glowing 
furnaces. We strolled through the parks, took a peep into 
the Tabor Grand Opera House and the Broadwa}' Theater, 
and found both of them models of elegance and beaut}'. 

92 



Shopped a little, and I was surprised at the size of the lead- 
ing stores and the extent and fine quality of the goods dis- 
played. My attention was attracted to a tablet let into the 
wall in front of H. H. Tammen's curiosity store, where souve- 
nirs of the mountains, Indian relics, mounted animal heads, 
and a thousand and one curious bits of bric-a-brac were on 
sale and exhibition, but the tablet was the thing that first 
attracted my attention. It bore the inscription: 



THIS TABLET 13 

PLACED JUST ONE MILE 

ABOVE THE SEA. 



"I found the business part of the city well built, tall 
blocks of brick and stone much in evidence, streets well 
paved with asphalt and everything denoting metropolitan 




Giant's Tea Kettle, Green River, Wyc, on Union Pacific System. 

93 




Witches Rocks, Weber Canon, I'tah, on Lnion I'aci?'ic. 

thrift and prosperit3^ The residence parts of the cit}' sur- 
prised me because of the elegance of the houses and the 
charm given them by spacious lawns and carefully nurtured 
ornamental trees and shrubs. The streets are rendered cool 
and pleasant by rows of elms, maples and cottonwoods, and 
I don't remember even one house built of wood, pressed brick 
and many varieties of beautiful colored stone being used ex- 
clusively. In a word, Denver impresses me as being one of 
the handsomest cities I have ever seen." 

"Not excepting 3'our own St. Louis ? " 

"I said one of the handsomest." 

"Oh ! Now what shall we do to-morrow ? " asked Judith. 

"To-morrow, methinks I hear Horatio say to-morrow " 
quoted Joan, " Go to, there is no such word save in 
the " 

"Good night," exclaimed the other girls, drowning the 
rest of the quotation and departing tired but happy for a 
night's sound sleep. 

94 



CHAPTER III. 




Over the Great Divide to Glenwood. 

"Merrily through the hills we go, 

Over the mountains crowned with snow, 

Into the valleys green below, 

Merrily, merrily. Oh ! 

— Soi/g of I lie Cabalcro . 

jEXT morning after a hearty breakfast, the excellence of 
which was fully appreciated by the young ladies, for 
they did not belong to the class of romantic creatures 
that are " too bright and good for human nature's daily food,'" 
a council of war was held and the question of what to do next 
was propounded for discussion. 

"Of course," said Judith, "we are all agreed that Salt 
Lake City shall be the next stage in our journey, but there 
are two trunk lines to that place from Denver and the ques- 
tion is which shall we take." 

"The Union Pacific is good enough for me," said Jennie. 

"I should like to go by the Denver and Rio Grande," 
said Julia. 

"I am willing to go either way," said Joan. 

" My vote is for the Rio Grande," remarked Judith, 
"and I am in favor of this line for several reasons. I'll give 
only one, however, and that is, the ticket I bought in Chica- 
go reads over that line." 

" And by a curious coincidence mine reads over the 
Union Pacific," exclaimed Jennie. 

" Mine is via the Rio Grande," remarked Julia, de- 
murely. 

" It doesn't take much acumen to discover why you girls 
prefer certain lines," laughed Joan. " I'm the only unpreju- 

95 




The Star Geysek, Yellowstone National Park, Wyo., Union Pacific 

Syste^l 



96 




Green River, Buttes, Wyo. Union Pacific System. 

diced one in the part}-, for I havn't bought my ticket yet. As 
JuHa and Juditli are booked over the Rio Grande and Jennie 
over the Union Pacific, I decide to go with Jennie and sug- 
gest that we meet at the Knutsford Hotel in Salt Lake City 
and there recount our experiences." 

This arrangement proved satisfactory and the young 
travelers meeting as agreed upon, with mutual enthusiasm 
told the story of their adventures. 

The proprietor of the Knutsford took special pains to 
make the 3^oung ladies comfortable and as a result they found 
themselves supplied with a very handsome suite of apart- 
ments with a most cosy and homelike parlor in which to hold 
their symposium. 

" Who speaks first ? ' asked Joan. 

"Judith, of course," said Jennie. 

"Why Judith and why of course ?" asked Judith. 

"Oh because," said Jennie. 

97 




Yellowstone Canon. Yellowstone National Pakk. Keacheu via 
Union Pacific System. 



98 




Pulpit Terraces, Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone National 
Park. Reached via Union Pacific System, 

"Carried," said Joan, " and there is no appeal from the 
decision of the chair. " Then Judith began by saying "We 
have been on the roof of the world, we have looked down on 
the clouds, we have been in the nethermost depths and have 
seen the stars at midday." 

"That's nothing," interrupted Joan, "we saw the si/n at 
midday, did'nt we Jennie?" 

"Yes, and the stars at midnight," replied Jennie. 

"If I'm to be interrupted — " began Judith. 

"You're /lo/ to be interrupted," said Joan, "only that star 
business rather star-tied me." 

" A fine is recorded against Joan," said Julia senten- 
tiously. 

" Wherefore ? " 

" You made a pun." 

" I did'nt mean to." 

99 



" Double the fine for not knowing it was loaded. Pro- 
ceed, Judith." 

"We took the standard gauge line of the Rio Grande 
from Denver to Salt Lake because that is the regular trans- 
continental route. We could have gone via the narrow gauge 
branch, over Marshall Pass, the highest railroad pass on the 
continent, and through the famous black Caiion in which 
towers the Currecanti Needle, and onward to Grand Junction, 
but, as I have said, we preferred the great through route by 




Great Shoshone Falls, Idaho, reached via Union Pacific System. 
way of Leadville, Glenwood Springs and thence to Grand 
Junction. 

"The Rio Grande line to Salt Lake and Ogden extends 
southward from Denver through Colorado Springs to Pueblo, 
a distance of 1-20 miles. From the latter point it swerves 
westward, and with many meanderings, maintains an average 
of westward coursing until Salt Lake City is reached. We 
have discussed the beauties of Manitou and its surroundings. 



so it is not necessary to sa}' more on that subject. As the 
train entered the northern suburbs of Pueblo we noticed the 
domes and cohimns of a very large and handsome building. 
Inquiring we learned that we were getting a glimpse of the 
famous Mineral Palace. This building is extremely unique 
in its architecture and contains, perhaps, the most complete 
and certainly the most attractive collection of mineral speci- 
mens in the world. Within its magnificent spaces are housed 
thousands of choice samples of gold, silver, iron, coal, mar- 




Great Shoshone Falls, Idaho, Looking down the Canon. 

REACHED VIA UnION PaCIFIC SySTEM. 

ble, onyx and innumerable curious and valuable substances 
that are taken from the hills of Colorado. There is a vast 
rotunda and a hall for lectures and musical entertainments, 
with an ample stage. One of the curious ornaments of this 
auditorium is a statue made of coal, which has been humor- 
ously christened "Old King Cole." 

"Pueblo is the second city of Colorado, with a popula- 



tion of 50,000. Here are located the great steel works of 
the Colorado Coal and Iron Co., second to no plant 
of the kind in the world. There are also a number of smelt- 
ers for gold and silver ores and many other large manufac- 
turing enterprises. 

At Florence, thirt3'-two miles west of Pueblo, we broke 
our journey to take a run up the new Florence and Cripple 
Creek Railroad to make a flying visit to Colorado's great gold 
camp. Florence is the site of petroleum wells and the tall 




Castle Crags. Southlk.n !'..>_.;, 
derricks remind one of the palmy days of Oil City and Titus- 
ville. The town is "booming," as the westerners say, new 
buildings going up and business rushing. Smelting plants 
and reduction works, to treat the gold ores of the Cripple 
Creek district, are in operation and in process of erection. 
The Florence and Cripple Creek Railroad is a scenic line as well 
as a great freight route. Extending through deep cuts and 
canons among the mountains, a distance of forty miles from 




I03 



Florence to the town of Cripple Creek, it presents scenes of 
most striking interest and illustrates the energy and pluck of 
railroad builders in the great West. Among the many curi- 
ous things we saw on this trip, was a great cut in the hills 
which we were informed had been thrown out by a single 
blast. Our attention was also attracted to a pine tree of good 
proportions growing from a split in an immense upheaved 
rock. 

" What can I tell you about Cripple Creek ? If I should 




Umbrella Tree, Pasadena, Cal. 
say that ihey mined gold there with a plow and scraper, I 
should tell you the truth, but not the whole truth. There 
are mines that are worked like open quarries, mines that are 
like sand hills full of gold dust, mines that are tunnels and 
shafts in solid rocks, mines of ever}' kind and character, but 
the one thing that is true is that Cripple Creek and its en- 
virons, including Victor, abound in gold, plenty of it and 
of very great richness. 1 can't begin to tell you half the 

104 



wonders I saw. If I should say that the output of Cripple 
Creek is ^25,000 a day for every day in the year, including 
Sundays, I wouldn't get it high enough, and if I got high 
enough for to- day, it wouldn't be high enough for to-morrow. 
If I were to tell you about riding into a boiling, seething, 
roaring, brand new mining camp in a Pullman palace car, I 
wouldn't be telling you half the wonders of the Florence and 
Cripple Creek railroad. You must allow your imagination 
full play and you'll then fall far short of the truth. 




Date Palm, Pasadena, Cal. 

"We returned to Florence and resumed our journey to 
ward Salt Lake, so filled with wonder and astonishment that 
the peaceful scenery of the valley along the Arkansas river, 
up whose bank we were proceeding, came like a benediction. 
Orchards abounding in apple, peach, cherry and all kinds of 
fruit trees, vineyards rich in growing grapes, meadows green 
with alfalfa, fields made lovely with nodding corn, cosy cot- 



105 



tages nestled among shade trees, presented a scene of syJvan 
beauty and content. 

'• Caiion City was soon reached, a charming Httle residence 
town, the center of the fruit growing section in this part of 
Colorado. There are medicinal springs here and a sanitarium 
for invalids. There is one honor belonging to Canon City 
that no other town in the State can claim, and that is the fact 
that it stands guard over the gateway to the Grand Canon of 
the Arkansas, the most magnificent, awe-inspiring and tre- 
mendous natural wonder that can be found in all the Rocky 
Mountain Range. 

" There are some things that can only be known through 
experience, that can never be described, that defy analysis 
and that make us understand how weak are words when feel- 
ing holds full sway. The ride through the Grand Canon is 
one of those experiences. No language can describe it, no 
painting simulate it, nothing can suggest its grandeur unless 
the soul, alive to music, may catch some hint of its grandeur 
in the 'Ocean Symphony.' For the distance of a mile or two 
above Caiion City the bluffs of the Arkansas river grow 
gradually more sharp and precipitous until the}' begin to 
tower like cyclopean walls on each side of the track. The 
road winds in and out, following the current of the river until 
all at once a great buttress of solid rock seems to stand 
directly in front of us as if to prevent further progress, but 
with a quick turn the engine swerves around the obstruction 
and we find ourselves within the magic precincts of the 
Grand Canon. Here it is that we realize the inadequacy of 
words to picture the grandeur of the scene which lies before 
us. The walls of the caiion rise in precipitous reaches to 
such a dizzy height that the eye with difficulty grasps the 
stupendous spectacle. The road lies along the base of the 
great cliff, with the river roaring and rushing by its side, and 
so narrow is the way that in many places tunnels have been 
cut through projecting rocks and in other instances the road- 
way has been blasted from the solid granite. At one point 
the walls approach each other so closely that there is no 

io6 




I07 



space left for both the river and the road and a bridge has 
been constructed lengthwise with the stream, suspended 
from iron trusses let into the rocks on either hand. Here 
the cliffs extend above our heads in towering majesty to the 
height of over half a mile, and the sky is a ribbon of deep 
blue in which the stars appear no matter how young or old 
the day may be. This is the Royal Gorge, the climax of 
grandeur ! 




The Prize Tallyho, The Raymond, Pasadena, Cal. 

"For nine miles this great gorge extends through the 
Front Range and for every mile of this wonderous canon there 
are new and startling combinations of beauty and magnifi- 
cence. But it's useless for me to try to describe what I saw. 
The only way to realize its grandeur is to go and see it your- 
self. Beyond the western entrance to the canon, the road 
still follows the river and we had charming views of quiet 
beauty, which served as a foil to the awe-inspiring scenery 

loS 



of the grand caiion. Soon the pretty town of Sahda is 
reached and liere we paused for a space long enough to se- 
cure a surprisingly good meal at the Monte Christo Hotel, a 
handsome structure adjoining the railroad station. And right 
here I want to say that the Denver and Rio Grand hotels and 
eating houses deserve the highest praise. The Union Depot 
Hotel at Pueblo, the Monte Christo, at Salida, and the eating 
houses at Leadville, Cimarron, Minturn and Crand Junction, 
are all of a high de<;ree of excellence. The food is well 




The Raymond, Pasadena, California. 

cooked, promptly served and of the best quality, while every- 
thing is scrupulously neat and clean. 

" From Salida, one branch of the line extends to Grand 
Junction via Marshall Pass, as I have already told you, and 
the main line reaches the same point by way of Leadville and 
Glenwood Springs, we going as you know by the latter 
route, following the Arkansas River almost at its source. Be- 
yond Salida we passed through the upper valley of the Ar- 

109 



kansas. On our right to the northward, sweeps the great 
South Park, one of those peculiar mountain valleys, a chain 
of which extends from North to South in the Rocky Range 
and known respectively as North Park, Middle Park, South 
Park, San Louis Valley and the Montezuma Valle}'. These 
parks are vast grass-grown plains surrounded by mountains 
and most of them have a larger area than that of some of 
the Eastern states. 

" The scenery between Salida and Leadville is very varied. 




Magnolia Avenue, Riverside, California. 
giving us a glimpse of placer mining along the banks of the 
river, and of hill, valley and mountain including the famous 
Collegiate Range with its lofty peaks known by the titles of 
Yale, Harvard and Princeton. There are mines among all 
these mountains and the gold and silver prospectors have 
here a rich field in which to labor. 

"Leadville is a marvelous city of about 20,000 in- 
habitants. Thirty years ago it was a famous gold camp, and 



the placers of California gulch j'ielded millions of dollars 
worth of the yellow dust. Ten years ago it was a great silver 
camp and gained the title of Leadville, because of the lead 
bearing silver ore which was found there in marvelous 
abundance. To-da}', it is once more a gold camp, and is 
excelling its early history in the production of gold. A 
wonderful fact about Leadville is that it is situated more 
than 10,000 feet above sea level, and in this respect is unique 
among the cities of the world. The wealth that has been 
taken from the mines of Leadville, and produced from her 
varied business enterprises is something stupendous; and 
with the new impetus received from the recent gold dis- 
coveries, the past history of the city, brilliant though it be, 
bids fair to be eclipsed by its future achievements. The 
town is completely surrounded by high, snow-crowned 
mountain peaks, and the view is transcendently beautiful. 

" Beyond Leadville the road plunges into the heart of 
the mountains, passing under the historic Tennessee Pass by 
means of a tunnel. This is the Great Divide of the conti- 
nent, and when we emerge from the darkness of the tunnel 
we see that the streams are all running westward instead of 
towards the East, and we know that we are now on the Pacific 
slope. Beyond the pass a short distance, the polite Pullman 
conductor warns us that we are approaching the only point 
on this line from which we can get a good view of the ISIount 
of the Holy Cross, so we take possession of the rear platform 
and with eager eyes watch for this wonderful spectacle. A 
little valley opens to the left, and looking upward toward the 
southeast, we see the summit of this marvelous mountain 
swinging into view, and soon we behold the emblem of the 
Christian faith resting on the granite bosom of the peak. 
The cross is perfect in its proportions, being caused by 
deposits of snow in a vertical canon, and on a transverse 
ledge. This snow, owing to its sheltered position, does not 
melt, while the winter mantel on the rest of the mountain 
disappears under the influence of the warm spring sunshine. 
The sight is thrilling, no matter what may be the faith of the 



observer, and is worth a journe}' across the continent to 
behold. 

" Following the westward flowing waters of the Eagle 
River we reach Red Cliff, a mining town of no great size but of 
considerable importance in mining circles because of the rich 
silver lodes which are found here and especially along the 
crest of Battle Mountain. This mountain frowns down upon 
the road as it makes its sinuous way through Eagle River 
Canon, and the shafthouses of the miners could be seen 
perched like the nests of eagles on the beetling cliffs above 
us as we whirled onward between walls of granite whose sum- 
mits reached at altitude of 2,000 feet. We were interested in 
observing the wire tramways leading like spiderwebs from 
the shafthouses, so high above us, down to the track, and we 
learned that the freight cars employed in carrying ore are 
loaded easily and expeditiously by means of these tramwa3'S. 
The scenery of Eagle River Canon is very beautiful, made 
softer in effect by the presence of abundant and umbrageous 
pines. Beyond the canon we enter the Eagle River Valley, 
a lovely vale shut in by Alpine hills " 

"Yes, we know all about the 'lovely vale,' don't quote 
Claude Melnotte's rhapsody to us," interrupted Jennie. 

" I know of nothing that describes it better," continued 
Judith, " but if you object I'll drop the quotation. The val- 
ley is made pleasant and fruitful by a happy and industrious 
people, who possess wide acres which are carefully and 
intelligently cultivated. The Eagle River is a clear and 
sparkling stream abounding in trout and making the valley 
fertile with its waters. Rushing along at the rate of thirty 
to forty miles an hour, the train soon traverses the length of 
Eagle River Valley and the scenery begins to change its 
aspect. The farther bank of the Eagle River is now a mass 
of black scoria, the deposit from some volcano whose fires 
were extinguished long ages ago. The phenomenon is strik- 
ing and at once attracts our attention. Tall cliffs arise on 
each side of the track and off to our right we see the junc- 
tion of the Eagle with the Grand River and the sparkling 




"3 



current of the former is lost in the turbulent flood of the 
latter. Then wonders in rock piling are beheld, towers and 
pinnacles, domes, minarets and obelisks arise, vast walls of 
varicolored stone hem us in and we realize that we have 
entered the noble Canon of the Grand River. This Caiion 
is longer than that of the Arkansas, more varied, more in- 
teresting, but less awful, less sublime. It abounds in sur- 
prises. It has moments of arabesque beauty followed by 
moments of awful sublimity. The walls in some places 
soar to a height of 2,50() feet and seem to tangle their 
granite fingers in the clouds. Ample opportunity is given 
to study the infinite variety of this great gorge for it is 
many miles in length, but finally the train plunges into dark- 
ness and tunnel No. 1 is reached. A few moments after it 
has been passed we enter tunnel No. 2, and shortly tunnel 
No. 3 lies before us. This is the longest of them all and 
when once more the bright sunlight reappears we see before 
us the famous health resort of the Rocky Mountains, Glen- 
wood Springs. 




114 




CHAPTER IV. 



Onward to the City of the Saints 

' I met a maid in serge arrayed, 
She bore a cross and psalter. 
Her eyes were bright as is the light 
Upon the sacred altar. 
Fair maid, cried I, pray tell me why, 
And answer me in pity, 
Why do you go ? She answered low . 
I seek the Holy City." 

Balltui of tJie Crusader. 

jLADDINS PALACE would not have surprised me 
moiv than did the splendid edifice of the Hotel Colo- 
rado supplemented by the magnificence of the vast 
bathing house. Nearly a million of dollars have been invested 
in these two buildings and the contiguous improvements. 

"The hotel is in the Italian style, the Villa Medicis in 
Rome having given inspiration for its central motive, which 
consists of two towers with connecting loggias, offering fine 
outlooks over valley, mountain and river. It is constructed 
of Peach Blow colored stone and Roman brick. Its dimen- 
sions are 224 feet across the front and 260 feet front front to 
rear. The hotel is built around three sides of a large court, 
124 feet square. In locating the building, advantage was 
taken of the natural slope of the ground, thus enabling the 
court to be terraced and adorned with fountains, paths, grass 
plats and beds of flowers. 

"The immense hot spring which pours its fervid waters 
into the river is one of the most wonderful of the many 
wonderful things to be seen at Glenwood. I was informed 
that every sixty seconds, 2000 gallons of water, at a tempera- 



.f^-.r*^; 



r^r-^-Tr^ 



;f)i1*%lV<, -jfi* •i'i.Ju-.^ 






•fs 




tare of 120 degrees Fahrenheit, gush out of the earth and 
pour into the big bathing pool which covers more than an 
acre of ground and varies in depth from three and one-half to 
five and one-half feet. In winter as well as summer the bath- 
is in the highest degree enjoyable, the temperature of the 
great body of water being from 93° to 98° Fahrenheit, be- 
ing cooled by water from the river. In the midst of the 
hot waters a fountain of cold water throws its grateful 
spray, forming a delightful shower bath. The bath house 
was a revelation to us for we had no idea that we should 
find so much of luxury and elegance here in the heart of 
the Rocky Mountains. Its walls are of solid masonry, the 
beautiful Peach Blow sandstone being the material used. 
It is a large building, set in a charming park, with ter- 
raced lawns and flower bordered walks and drives. There 
are forty-four bath rooms, with a dressing and lounging 
room for each bath room, and all are large, well lighted 
and well ventilated. The building contains also a ladies' 
parlor, physician's oflice, smoking and reading rooms, re- 
ception rooms, etc., all of which are elegantly furnished. 
It is lighted by electricity. It can readily be inferred that 
Glenwood Springs is a very popular health and pleasure 
resort, possessing grand scenery, an altitude of 5,200 feet, a 
sheltered position in a sunn}' valle}' and marvelous hot 
springs, of great curative properties. A branch of the Den- 
ver & Rio Grande Railroad extends through the mountains 
from this point to Aspen, a distance of 41 miles, one of the 
richest mining towns in the ^^'est, a handsome city of 6,500 
population, situated amidst the grandest of scenery. 

"From Glenwood Springs the train rolled rapidly down 
a fertile and picturesque valley along the course of the Grand 
River. On one side the hills hedged in the view, while on the 
other the valley extended back to the picturesque Book 
Cliffs, whose ramparts of multicolored rock, carved into an 
infinite variety of form by the action of wind and frost and 
water, rose into view. We enjo\ed the delightfully varied 
scenery until the porter announced Grand Junction and in- 



117 




Spearfisii Canon, on the Burlington Route. 
ii8 



formed us that the train would stop there for half an hour. 

"We took advantage of the stop to stroll on the station 
platform and enjoy the balmy air and the bright sunshine. 
The Pullman conductor, who had proved exceedingly kind, 
approached us and said, ' Excuse me, but if you would like 
to know anything about Colorado scenery, or railroads, or 
politics, or literature, that gentleman, I was just speaking to, 
can tell you all about them. He's going to Salt Lake in our 
Pullman.' 

"'Who is he,' I asked. 

"' Everybody calls him Fitz-Mac, he's a well known writer 
and that's the name he signs. I don't know what his real 
name is. It's a question if he knows what it is himself, he 
don't hear it from anybody that knows him and everybody 
knows him.' 

"Now, girls don't laugh at us and don't be scandalized, 
but somehow or other we got acquainted with Fitz-Mac, and 
a very nice gentleman he proved to be. 

"There is much to interest one at Grand Junction, so 
named because it is situated at the confluence of the Gunni- 
son with the Grand River and " 

"Tell us more about Fitz-Mac" — interrupted Jennie. 

"Hush, child," said Julia severely, "we're studying 
scenery." 

"Not when there is an interesting man in the fore- 
ground," replied Jennie. 

"Very well," said Judith, " PU describe Fitz-Mac first, 
and Grand Junction afterward. The gentleman would be 
characterized by the novelist as ' still young.' He is of me- 
dium height, has dark eyes and hair and a full beard trimmed 
to a peak, a la Parisian. His smile, as Mrs. Gamp would 
say, is "eavingly ' his voice soft, low and cultivated, his man- 
ner polished and debonaire." 

"Ah!" sighed Jennie, " I wish Pd gone over the Rio 
Grande." 

"Grand Junction," said Judith, "is a thriving town of 
3,00U inhabitants, situated in the great fruit growing belt of 

119 



Colorado. Mining, agriculture and the raising of sheep and 
cattle also help to make for its prosperity. Here the Denver 
and Rio Grande connects with the Rio Grande Western Rail- 
way, the latter line extending from Grand Junction to Salt 
Lake City and Ogden, though there is no change of cars, the 
sleeper taken at Denver running through to San Francisco. 
Ten miles beyond Grand Junction we passed through the little 
town of Fruita, which is famous for the fact that around it are 
the finest fruit orchards in Colorado. Leaving Fruita the 
line passes on for eight miles through orchard lands and then 
we plunge once more into the depths of the Canon of the 
Grand River. What can I say to convey to you the grandeur 
of the scene ? The stupendous majesty of this rocky way 
rifted through the mountains is beyond the power of descrip- 
tion. The glowing colors of the Ruby Amphitheater, the flam- 
ing splendor of Flamingo Rocks, the grotesque figures in ever- 
lasting stone of the ' Mulligan Guards' and the almost innu- 
merable points of especial interest defy all my attempts at word 
painting. Beyond the canon is the desert. Arid expanses of 
shifting sand, treeless, shrubless, verdureless, dead ! But 
ready to blossom like the rose under the influence of irriga- 
tion. On the horizon to our left, distant fifty miles, rise the 
serrated summits of the LaSal mountains, while to the right 
we can see the castellated formations of the Book Cliffs. 

"It was during our crossing of the desert that 'Fitz 
Mac' told us about the attractions of southern Colorado. 
'This part of the State,' said he, 'can be reached by the 
Denver and Rio Grande Railroad and its extensions, known 
as the Rio Grande Southern and the Silverton Railroad. 
These lines have also various branches, so that every part of 
the mountain and valley region south of the Arkansas River 
is easily reached. The leading towns of the southwest are 
Alamosa, Montevista, Del Norte and Wagonwheel Gap in the 
San Luis ^'alley, and beyond Wagonwheel Gap, which is a 
great health resort, possessing wonderful hot springs, is 
Creede, the recently discovered and exceedingly rich silver 
camp. Durango is the metropolis of the Animas ^'alley, 




SpearfiSh Falls, South Dakota, on Buklinoion Kouti:. 

121 



while Silverton, in Baker's Paik, is the center of a great gold 
and silver mining region. The scenery of southern Colorado 
is grand and beautiful. Toltec Gorge, Animas Canon, 
Wagonwheel Gap, Baker's Park, Red Mountain, Mount 
Abrams, are all worth a trip across the continent to see. 
The Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, recognizing this fact, 
have established special rates during the summer season 
for a journey from Denver to Silverton, thence over the range 
to Oura}', and back to Denver. This tour is called 'The 
Trip Around the Circle,' and embraces in its thousand miles 
more marvels of scenic interest than any other journey of a 
thousand miles in the world. The Rio Grande Southern 
Railroad extends from Durango to Rico, Telluride, and back 
to the main line at Ridgway. It is by this line that one 
reaches the mysterious ruins of the cliff dwellings, the dis- 
mantled homes of a race long since forgotten. These cliff 
houses are built of hewn stone laid in a cement that is harder 
than the stone itself. Who the mysterious people were, how 
long ago they lived and what was their fate, are questions 
that are yet unanswered. The towns of Rico and Telluride 
are thriving mining centers, and famous for their output of 
gold and silver ore. I could talk to 5'ou for hours abcut 
this wonderful countr}', but we are approaching Green River, 
and I will stop talking and suggest that we go out on the 
platform and take a look at the river and its surroundings.' 

" Complying with our friend's request " 

" Oh, he's ' our friend,' is he ? " interrupted Jennie. 
"We all went out to the platform," continued Judith, 
ignoring the interruption though a flushed cheek signaled the 
fact that she felt the mischevious thrust, "and we were well 
paid for our trouble. The river is most appropriately named 
for its waters are deeply tinged with green. It is a pecnli-, 
aritv of the streams in the Rocky Mountains that they are in- 
dividualized by marked differences in color. The waters of 
the Animas River are deep)}' blue; those of the Gunnison 
slightly yellow, the Eagle has a silvery tint while the Grand 
River is brown in hue. Though Green River Station is in tl.e 



y" 




Crow Indian Agency, South Dakota, on Burlington Route. 

desert its grounds are beautified with green sward, flowering 
slirubs and thrifty trees, all owing their existence to the magic 
of irrigation, and convincing the most skeptical that these 
barren, arid wastes can be reclaimed and made fertile through 
the influence of water. This is a dining station of the Rio 
Grande Western, and with that at Helper is famed among 
tourists for unusual excellence. Beyond Green River the 
desert extends a distance of sixty-four miles to the town 
of Price, which is situated on Price River, from which it is 
named. This desert, however, is being steadily reclaimed by 
the introduction of irrigating ditches and in course of time 
will become fertile farming and orchard lands. Leaving the 
Price River behind us we enter regions of more picturesque 
interest and soon behold the famed Castle Gate whose rock 
built bastions rise on either side of the track leaving but a 
narrow way for the train to enter. This is the gateway to 
the Wasatch range of mountains and the ascent is soon begun . 
"Soldier Summit, which derives its name from the fact 
that a soldier of Albert Sidney Johnston's army died and was 



123 



buried here, is the crest of the range over which the hne 
passes at an altitude of V,465 feet. For twenty miles we 
wind downward through romantic scenery on the western 
slope of the Wasatch and at Thistle we enter the shadows of 
Spanish Fork Caiion, a gorge in the mountains that abounds 
in most varied and striking views. I have been a spendthrift 
of words and have no language that can impart to you the 
grandeur and varietj'of this caiion. I can onl}' say that every 
moment passed within its depths abounded in keen delight. 
At the western end of the gorge nestle Castilla Springs, one 
of the most famous health resorts of Utah. Here are a hand- 
some brown stone hotel and man}' neat cottages for the ac- 
commodation of guests who seek these marvelous healing 
springs in search of health and recreation. The altitude of 
the springs is 4,020 feet and the distance from Ogden only 
ninety-eight miles. Sixteen miles beyond we pass through 
Provo, a typical Mormon town famous as a health resort and 
for its fruits and vegetables, and find ourselves traversing 
Utah Valley, with a charming view of Utali Lake, laying 
bright and beautiful, only three miles distant to the south- 
ward. From this lake the Jordan river, whose course we 
cross twice near Jordan Narrows, runs down to the Great 
Salt Lake. At Bingham Junction, one branch line strikes 
off to the rich Bingham mines sixteen miles soutliwest. An- 
other branch, ten miles long, runs to Wasatch at the mouth 
of Little Cottonwood Caiion, where all the white granite for 
the Mormon temple in Salt Lake Cit}' was quarried. For 
four miles on both sides the caiion is walled with this beauti- 
ful stone. From Wasatch a tramway leads to Alta where the 
famous Emma mine is located. In quick succession we pass 
Brigham Junction, Germania and Francklyn, and reach the 
goal of our ambition, Salt Lake Cit}'. 



124 



CHAPTER V. 




Salt Lake City and the great Salt Sea 



" When the desert shall grow green, 
And when ships shall there be seen; 
When fresh water streams shall pour 
Into Salt Sea, evermore, 
And the Sea shall salter grow; 
Then the sons of men may know 
That the time is drawing near 
When the world shall disappear." 

— IMotlter Shiptoti's Pf-opheey. 

[OTHER SHIPTON must have had a very clear vision 
of Salt Lake Valley and the Great Salt Lake when 
she wrote her famous prophecy," said Judith, as she 
read the lines which head this chapter, " but while her pre- 
mises are correct, her conclusion is certainly false, for the 
world doesn't show the least signs of disappearing. I, for 
one, should be very sorry if it did, for the world is very attract- 
ive to me just now and especially this corner of it. Salt Lake 
City has a peculiar charm for me and I find here the survivals 
of a most peculiar and quaint civilization. The advent of the 
Gentiles and their accession to power are working a great 
change, and modern methods of business and architecture 
are fast transforming the appearance of the city. The patri- 
archal government of Brigham Young is now a thing of the 
past, but the Tabernacle, the Temple and Assembly Hall, to- 
gether with the Lion House, the Amelia Palace, and other 
buildings of a like character remain as monuments of the days 
when Mormonism ruled this valley. Picturesque for situa- 
tion, Salt Lake City, embowered in shade trees, with rivulets 



of water coursing down each side of her streets, with verdant 
lawns, bkishing rose bushes, flowering shrubs in luxuriant 
profusion, surrounded by mountains and near the margin of 
the mysterious Salt Sea, commands our admiration and stands 
unique among the cities of the world. Every house in the 
city is surrounded by green lawns, gardens and orchards, so 
that one looks in vain for a poor man's home. The humblest 
adobe cottage, half hidden in trees, fruit and flowers, becomes 
a thing of beaut}'. In fact, the emblem of Mormonism was a 




Graves ok Soldiers on the Field where Custer Fell. 

Bee Hive, and every man, woman and child had to work at 
something. Under Mormon rule everybody was a producer. 
No drones were tolerated, and there were no loafers, tramps or 
beggars. The whole city was abloom with industr}' and 
thrift. 

" As to the present status of the city, Colonel Donan 
furnishes me with the following facts: Only within the last 
three or four years has the spirit of modern Gentile progress 
reached this quaintest, most beautiful and most interesting of 

126 



North American cities. Its population rose fro.n 'iOjtjTS in 
1880, to 4(5,259 in 1890, and it is now between 50,000 and 
55,000. The assessed vahie of property sprang from $16, 
011,752 in 1889, to $54,353,740 in 1890; an increase of 227 
per cent, in a single year. As the assessment is on a basis of 
one-fifth to one-fourth of actual valuation, the true value of 
real estate and personal property in the city is over $200, 
000,000 ; but put it at only double the assessor's figures and 
it amounts to $108,707,480, which, in a place of 50,000 popu- 
lation, is an average of more than $2,000 for every inhabitant 
within its municipal limits. This has no parallel in any 
other American city, if it has in the world. 

•'Temple Block is one of the first objects of curious interest 
that we visited. It is a square containing an area of ten acres 
surrounded by a wall fifteen feet high and five feet thick. In 
it stand the magnificent Mormon Temple, the Tabernacle 
and the Assembly Hall. The Temple is, witli the single 
exception of St Patrick's Cathedral in New York, the grand- 
est and costliest ecclesiastical structure in the country. It 
was begun in 1853, and is just completed at a cost of nearly 
$6,000,000. It is two hundred feet long, a hundred feet wide, 
and a hundred feet high, with four towers, one at each corner, 
two hundred and twenty feet in height. The walls are ten 
feet thick, and the massiveness and solidit}' of its construction 
insure its defiance to the ravages of time for ages to come. 
It is built wholly of snow-white granite from the Cottonwood 
Canon; and standing on one of the loftiest points in the city, 
it can be seen for fifty miles up and down the valley. 

"The Tabernacle, which is just west of the Temple in the 
same square, is one of the architectural puzzles of the world. 
It looks like a vast terrapin-back, or half of a prodigious egg- 
shell cut in two lengthwise, and is built wholly of iron, glass 
and stone. It is two hundred and fifty feet long, a hundred 
and fifty feet wide, and a hundred feet high in the center of 
the roof, which is a single mighty arch, unsupported by pillar 
or post, and is said to have but one counterpart on the globe. 
The walls are twelve feet thick, and there are twenty huge 

127 




12.8 



double doors for entrance and exit. The Tabernacle seats 
13,4()'2 people, and its acoustic properties are so marvelously 
perfect that a whisper or the dropping of a pin can be heard 
all over it. The organ is one of the largest and grandest 
toned in existence, and was built here of native woods, by 
Mormon workmen and artists, at a cost of $l()(i,000. It is 
fift)'-eight feet high, has fifty-seven stops, and contains two 
thousand six hundred and forty-eight pipes, some of them 
nearly as large as the' chimneys of a Mississippi River steam- 
boat. The choir consists of from two hundred to five hundred 
trained voices, and the music is glorious beyond description. 
Much of it is in minor keys, and a strain of plaintiveness 
mingles with all its majesty and power. All the seats are free, 
and tourists from all parts of the world are to be found among 
the vast multitude that assembles at every service. 

"Assembly Hall is of white granite, of Gothic architec- 
ture, and has seats for 2,500. The ceiling is elaborately fres- 
coed with scenes from Moiinon history, including the delivery 
of the golden plates, containing the New Revelation to the 
Prophet Joseph Smith, by the Angel Moroni. The hall con- 
tains a superb organ of native woods and home workman- 
ship. 

"Salt Lake City is surrounded by lovely pleasure grounds 
and unsurpassable health resorts. The mountains and 
caiions afford an endlessly varied field for summer tourist rec- 
reation; and medicinal springs abound. The most famous of 
these are the Warm Springs, within the city limits, and the 
Hot Springs, about four miles out, both on electric street car 
lines. The water of Hot Springs has a temperature of 128°, 
and the flow is over 20,000 gallons an hour. It is noted for 
its curative power. The water of the Warm Springs, with a 
temperature of 103°, is piped into a superb natatorium in the 
heart of the city. The invalid here has the advantage of a 
climate that is as nearly perfect as can be found; dry, bracing, 
combining the salt air of the sea with the pure and rarified 
air of the mountains; where the sun shines nearly every day in 
the year; where there is no fog, miasma or malaria, and where 

1^9 




I30 



tlie blizzards and sand storms that aulict otlier Iitalth resort 
regions are unknown.'" 

"Doctor Judith, when do }ou propose to open an office?" 
asked Jennie, smiling at her friend's cntliusiasm. 

"Not now, and certainly not iiere. The climate is too 
strong a competitor," answered Judith. 

" But Great Salt Lake has a fascination for me" that can- 
not be shaken off. How can we account for this mysterious 
inland sea, 100 miles in length and an average of 25 miles in 
breadth; with an area of ■2,')00 square miles; with man}' 
fresh water tributaries and no known outlet ; with an average 
depth of 20 feet, with an altitude of 4,250 feet above sea level, 
with waters six times as salt as those of the ocean, with four 
large rivers pouring into it and no perceptible rise of its sur- 
face and not the slightest diminution of its saline qualities? 

" When, in February, ]S4r), twenty thousand ^Mormons, 
under the leadership of Brigham Young, started from Nauvoo, 
Illinois, on their two thousand mile pilgrimage through the 
trackless wilderness of the American West, the}' proclaimed 
themselves the modern Israel in search of the promised land. 
As Colonel Donan says : It was a strange fate, or destiny, or 
Providence; that led them to a region so similar to the ' Land 
of Promise' of Israel of old. There, the lake of Gennesaret, 
or sea of Galilee, was fresh water and full of fish. The Jor- 
dan River flowed out of it and emptied into the Dead Sea, 
which is so salt that no living thing is found in its waters. 
Here, Utah Lake is fresh and sweet, and its limpid waters 
swarm with speckled trout and other fish as sa\ory as an}- 
that strained the nets of Peter, James and John. Out of it 
flows the Mormon River Jordan, and after rambling for forty 
or fifty miles through orchards and meadows, grain fields and 
gardens, pours its silvery tide into Great Salt Lake, the salt- 
est body of water on the globe, surpassing even its Judean 
counterpart by one and a half per cent. In the Holy Land 
the Jordan flows from North to South, while the Utah Jordan 
flows from South to North. Mount Nebo stood like a giant 
sentinel overlooking the ancient 'land flowing with milk and 

131 



honey,' and here Mount Nebo, lifting its crown of eternal 
snow twelve thousand feet heavenward, stands guard forever 
over a fairer Canaan than that which Moses viewed, but never 
entered. 

" It may seem preposterous to talk of the finest sea bath- 
ing on earth a thousand miles from the ocean ; but truth is no 
less truth because it appears absurd. The sea bathing in Great 
Salt Lake infinitely surpasses anything of the kind on either 
the Atlantic or Pacific coasts. The water contains many 
times more salt and much more soda, sulphur, magnesia, 
chlorine, bromine and potassium than any ocean water on the 
globe. It is powerful in medicinal virtues. The specific 
gravity is but a trifle less than that of the Hol}^ Land Dead 
Sea, the actual figures with distilled water as a unit being, for 
theocean 1.0-27, for Salt Lake I.IOV, and for the Dead Sea 
1.116. The human bod}' will not and cannot sink in it. You 
can walk out in it where it is fifty feet deep, and your body 
will stick up out of it, like a fishing cork, from the shoulders 
upward. You can sit down in it perfecth' secure where it is 
fathoms deep. Any one can float upon it at the first trial ; 
there is nothing to do but lie down gently upon it and float. 

" Saltair Beach is without doubt the finest salt water bath- 
ing resort in the world. The magnificent building erected 
for the convenience of bathers, owes its existence to the en- 
terprise of the Rio Grande Western Railway. It was built at 
a cost of over $300,000 and extending fully a half a mile into 
the lake, contains 1,000 bath rooms, and is one of the most 
attractive resorts in this region of wonderful attractions. 

"But in the words of Captain Corcoran 'Though I'm 
anything but clever, I could talk like that forever,' and as we 
have yet to hear how the other girls fared on their journev 
from Denver to Ogden, I will stop right here." 



132 



CHAPTER VI. 

DENVER TO OGDEIN BY THE OVERLAND 

ROUTE. 

" Along my trail the eagles fly 
But not so far nor fast as I ; 
I climb to where the rivers rise, 
Where mountains escalade the skies, 
Where baby rivers, doubting rest. 
To turn their footsteps East or West." 

— Si'ii^if of tlw Loconiotivc. 



IHILE Julia and Judith were speeding southward over 
the Denver and Rio Grande to Pueblo " began Jen- 
nie, "Joan and I were flying northward over the 
Union Pacific to Cheyenne." 

" And yet we've met, though going in opposite direc- 
tions,"' exclaimed Julia. "That proves the world is round." 

" It would if both roads did'nt turn westward." 

" In that case they're parallel and the fact that 
we're all here must prove that parallel lines can meet." 

" Nonsense ! It proves that both the Rio Grande West- 
ern and the Union Pacific reach Salt Lake city, and I suppose 
you want me to tell you how the Union Pacific does it ? " 

" Certainl)'." 

" In that case I require nothing but silence from you 
and mighty little of that, as the Irishman said. 

" From Denver the through trains for San Francisco 
go northward lOG miles to Cheyenne, Wyoming, which is the 
junction point of the two main stems of the Union Pacific, 
the Nebraska main line, 5 It', miles from Omaha, and the 
Kansas main line 74C., via Denver, from Kansas Cit\'. 

IJ3 




134 



We enjoyed tlie run from Denver to Clieyenne verj- highl}', 
at least / did, because it gave me an opportunity to tra- 
verse the oldest in point of settlement and most highly 
cultivated agricultural region of Colorado. Of course this 
wasn't so much of a novelty to Joan as she is a Colorado 
girl. For a part of the wa}' we followed down to the 
Platte River and beheld as beautiful fields of grass and 
i?raiu as one could find anywhere. 

'• The town of Greeley attracted my attention because it 
is the pioneer settlement, and here was first demonstrated 
the magic of irrigation in the State. Greeley is a clean, 
handsome town of 2,/)00 people, perfectly shaded by trees, 
and one of the most beautiful cities in Colorado. Besides 
being situated in the midst of a garden spot, its citizens have 
taken great pains to set out shade trees on their grounds 
and along the sidewalks, la}- out lawns, and plant flowers, 
shrubbery, and vines about their houses. An excellent sys- 
tem of waterworks, with ample supply of water, affords all 
an opportunity to keep the lawns and gardens well watered, 
and the result is almost an annual transformation in the ap- 
pearance of the cit}'. In fact, more than half of the town is 
hidden in foliage. To our left we had the Snowy Range con- 
stantly in view, with Long's tremendous peak standing sentry 
at the northern e.xtremity. 

"Cheyenne, 6,050 feet in altitude, with a population of 
12,744 is one of the sprightliest and most prosperous of cities 
in the entire West. It is well and compactly built, and for 
many years has been the center of the cattle industr}^ of the 
Northwest. It constituted for a long time the outpost of 
civilization, becoming embodied in the legends of border life, 
and is a place of rare historical interest. Cheyenne possesses 
all the modern improvements — gas, electric light, street car 
service and most of the luxuries of cit}' life. From Che3-enne 
a branch of the Union Pacific runs north through a magnifi- 
cent agricultural country to Douglas, W\'oming, 107 miles 
distant. 

"Sherman, a small station just west of Cheyenne, at an 

^35 




136 



elevation of iS,247 feet, is the loftiest point in the transconti- 
nental ride. From Sherman can be seen Long's peak, near]}- 
200 miles away. Near the station is the Ames Monument, a 
pyramidal granite structure sixty-five feet in height, with a 
base sixty feet square, which was erected by the Union 
Pacific Railway to the memory of the Ames Brothers, to 
whom the completion of the Union Pacific was largely due. 
The scenery is wild and rugged. Just beyond Sherman is 
Dale Creek bridge, one of the most remarkable sights of the 
overland trip. The structure is of iron and stretches from 
bluff to bluff with a 650-foot span. The train passes over it 
just 127 feet above the creek, which looks like a mere rivulet 
below. Pike's peak can be seen awa}- off to the south, not 
less than 165 miles distant. 

" Laramie has an ekvation of 7,149 feet above sea level, 
and a population of 6,388. It is one of the principal towns on 
the main line of the Union Pacific between Council Bluffs 
and Ogden. Then come Rawlins, Rock Springs and Green 
River, where the trains for Portland, Oregon, are made up, 
although they do not take their departure from the main line 
until Granger is reached, thirty miles west of Green River, 
and the trip across the continent is continued to the great 
Northwest. The road goes along over moderate curves and 
grades, through pretty little valleys along the Bear River, 
until the great territory of Idaho is entered at Border Station. 
Then on through Soda Springs and Pocatello-- the junction 
with the Utah and Northern branch for Butte, Garrison and 
Helena. Next, Shoshone Station is reached, where the 
junction is made for the Great Shoshone Falls, via stage, and 
also for Hailey and Ketchum, via rail; thence from Shoshone 
Station tlie road stretches away through Nampa, where the 
junction is made with the Idaho Central branch for Boise 
City, nineteen miles distant; and on the train goes from 
Nampa, through Caldwell and Weiser to Huntington, within 
Oregon; thence from Huntington through Baker Cit}-. Union, 
La Grande, Pendleton and Umatilla Junction to 'The 
Dalles,' which takes its name from the dalles of the Colum- 

137 



bia. From this point on to East Portland the trip is one 
replete with scenic wonders. Arriving in Portland, which is 
the metropolis of the Northwest Pacific coatt, and a large, 
handsome cosmopolitan city, the trip ' Across the Continent ' 
to Portland, Oregon, is complete. 

" There are many objects of interest in and around Green 
River, among which are the peculiar clay buttes by which it 
is surrounded. From Green River the trip across the con- 
tinent is continued. At Wasatch Station the summit of the 
Wasatch range of mountains is reached. The elevation is 
6,824 feet, and at this point the road enters Echo Canon. 
Echo Creek, which runs through the cailon, is crossed thirty- 
one times in twenty-six miles. Three and a half miles west 
of Wasatch, the train runs into a tunnel 000 feet long. At 
Echo Station, Weber Caiion is entered. One and a half miles 
west of Echo can be seen the 'Witch Rocks.' Five miles 
further on is the 1,000 mile tree, which is just 1,000 miles 
from Omaha, and a mile further on is the 'Devil's Slide.' 
Echo and Weber canons compare favorably with the cel- 
ebrated Colorado canons. Three and a half miles west of 
Corydon, the canon broadens out, and to the left are noticed 
the first of the Mormon settlements. About one- half way 
between Peterson and Uintah Station, ' Devil's Gate ' is to 
be seen, and shortly after, the country v.'idens into the Great 
Salt Lake Valley, when Ogden is reached. The first view of 
the valley after the surfeit of mountain scenery, is one of 
striking contrast, quiet and pleasant to the eye. Ogden is 
1,03-1: miles from Council Bluffs, and 83:5 miles from San 
Francisco. 

'• Ogden is pushing, prosperous and picturesque. It oc- 
cupies a strong point of vantage at the junction of the \\eber 
and Ogden Rivers and is possessed of magnificent water 
power. On a bench of Great Salt Lake it overlooks that in- 
land sea, and has a wide horizoned view of mountain and 
valley. Its population is above the 20,000 mark and its 
growth rapid and secure. The whole surrounding countr}- is 
rich in mines of gold, silver, copper, lead and iron, and the 

138 




139 



bonanzas of LaPlata are almost at the doors of Ogden. The 
famous Utah Hot Springs, where many marvelous cures have 
been effected, are near the city, and a charming bathing resort 
on the Salt Lake beach is in plain view of the courthouse. The 
ride from Ogden to Salt Lake Cit}- is full of interest. We 
rushed for eighteen miles, through fields waving with grow- 
ing grain and orchards bending under their burdens of bloom, 
through Hooper and Layton, and Kaysville where two Mor- 
mon farmers recently raised a hundred and six bushels of 
wheat to the acre and sold it, measuring that number of 
bushels for every acre they had in cultivation, to the great 
Zion store in Salt Lake City. On we go four miles further 
to Farmington, where a spur of track runs down to the Lake 
Park Bathing Beach with its pavilions and piers, bath houses, 
verandas and promenades, and its extensive salt works ; on 
past Lake Shore Station, where tens of thousands of tons of 
salt are made without cost from the wondrous lake waters ; 
past Wood's Crossing and Hot Springs, where a flood of al- 
most boiling water pours from the side of a granite cliff, as 
full of healing virtues as those of Arkansas or Carlsbad or 
Baden Baden ; on amid meadows of sweet scented alfalfa 
and orchards of peaches and apricots, nectarines, apples and 
plums, with the grand Wasatch peaks always on the left hand 
and the azure expanse of the great lake on the right. 
'Whoop I ' goes the whistle and looking out of the window 
we see the spires of the Temple and the next minute, the 
train stops at the station and we are in Salt Lake City and 
the arms of Judith and Julia." 

"A regular Lady Gay Spanker speech," said Judith. 

" You don't lack in London Assurance," answered Jen- 
nie. " Now let's go to dinner." 



140 



CHAPTER VII. 



Onward to the golden Gate— Then 
Homeward. 

"Westward !" the Chieftains cry, 
" Westward !" the braves reply ; 
" Westward to where our fortunes wait 
Beside the Golden Gate." 

— Till- Braves Form. 



fINNER had been discussed, and the unattended ones 




\i!*y/j were now discussing another serious question, namely 
"" " the next stage of their journey. 

"We really must move on," said Joan. 

"Don't say move on," remarked Jennie, "you're not a 
policeman." 

" No, but we must move on just the same." 

" We don't need a committee on ways and means," said 
Judith, " because in the matter of 'means,' we've our tickets, 
and as to 'ways,' there's only one way and that's over the 
Central Pacific Railroad." 

"Southern Pacific, you mean, dear," corrected Julia. 

"Everything must be southern with you," replied Judith. 
"I suppose you're correct, but everybody calls the line 
from Ogden to San Francisco the Central Pacific, and one 
might as well be dead as out of the fashion, and I'd call it 
the Central Pacific if its real name were the Circumference 
Pacific, so there !" 

The follawing day saw the four young ladies comfortably 
ensconced in a section of the San Francisco Pullman in a 
position for the first time since the beginning of their journey 

141 



to indulge in wliist without a dummy and to buy four apples 
for a dime and all be present to dispose properly of them. 

The journey was made in this happ}' quartette fashion 
until Sacramento was reached, at which point Judith and Joan 
took the Southern Pacific branch to Los Angeles, and Jennie 
and Julia continued onward to San Francisco, with the 
understanding that the} should journey southward from 
tfhat city to Pasadena and join the others at the Hotel 
Ra3'moud. 

Perhaps the best wa}' to give an idea of that portion of 
the journey which the young ladies made in company will be 
to quote some extracts from a letter Judith wrote to her father 
in which she said: "From Ogden the trip is made on the 
Central Pacific Railroad, over great plains and through im- 
mense snow sheds, great mountain ranges, beautiful vallej's 
and jagged foothills. 

" Leaving Ogden, the train passes Promontor}', which was 
intended to be the point of junction of the two roads forming 
the transcontinental route, namel\-, the Union and Central 
Pacific Railroads. I^ater on, Ogden was decided upon as a 
compromise. 

"The crowning scenes of the trip across Utah, Nevada, 
and California are not reached until Reno is passed. Cape 
Horn, Emigrant Gap, the Sierra Nevadas, Donner Lake, and 
other objects of more than ordinar}' interest then attracted our 
attention. 

"Nevada, of course, is celebrated for her famous mines. 
The great mines of Virginia City and tl^e Sutro Tunnel at- 
tract numerous visitors. The marvelous Carson and Hum- 
boldt sinks, in which the waters of all the rivers in the State 
CI Nevada, save one, are swallowed, the Mud Lakes, the- 
Borax marshes, and countless numbers of thermal springs, 
have been the wonder of the scientist and the delight of the 
tourist. One hundred and fiftj'-five miles from Reno is Sac- 
ramento, a beautiful city and the capital of California. It is 
delightfuU}' located upon the east bank of the Sacramento 
river, in the midst of the most productive grain fields, vine- 

142 




I'iEPEE, OK Devil '.'i Tower, Wvo. Burlington Route. 
143 



3'ards and orchards in the world. The climate is delightful 
and the surrounding country entrancing." 

It must be confessed that this was a very brief summary 
of the attractions of the journey from Ogden to Sacramento, 
but it should be understood that Judith was busy looking at 
the marvelous scenery, and did'nt have much time to write 
out her impressions. But when the party met at the Ray- 
mond a few days after separating at Sacramento, the flow of 
conversation made ample amends for the lack in the flow of 
ink. 

" Judith and I have been having a lovely time at the 
Raymond,"' said Joan to Julia and Jennie, as the four friends 
gathered for a " good talk " in a quiet corner of the hotel 
piazza. 

"This is the most lovely hotel, in the loveliest spot of the 
loveliest country, with the loveliest climate in the whole 
world," exclaimed Judith enthusiastically. 

"And it's full of the loveliest people," began Joan. 

"Including ourselves," concluded Julia. 

" Isn't this a vision of beauty?" cried Jennie, pointing 
to the landscape spread out beneath them. " How restful to 
the eye and mind of the tired traveler, that broad expanse of 
vineyards, while the hills and vales of Pasadena glowing with 
the rich green foliage of the orange and lemon trees, amid 
which we can see stately villas and picturesque cottages, add 
to the variety and picturesqueness of the scene." 

"And yonder are the mountains," exclaimed Julia, point- 
ing to the northward. 

"Yes," said Joan with the air of an old resident, '-Those 
nearer us are the Sierra San Fernando, while the further 
range, etherially blue against the sk}', is the lofty wall of the 
Sierra Madre. " 

"There is only one fault I And with the management 
of the Raymond," said Judith, "and that is that they do not 
keep the hotel open the entire year. It is such a marvel of 
excellence that it seems a shame to havf it silent and almost 
deserted for any part of the year. You know it is owned by 

144 



Mr. Walter Raymond, of Boston, Mass , one of the firm of 
Raymond and Whitcomb, the great excursion managers. By 
the way, the hotel Colorado, at Glenwood Springs, Colo., is 
also owned by Mr. Raymond." 

"The building is certainly magnificent in its proportions 
and it occupies one of the grandest of situations," said Jen- 
nie. 

•' And I can assure you that its accommodations are 
fully up to the highest standard of excellence," remarked 
Joan. 

"It is certainly a most charming place," said Julia. 

"Oh! you don't know half the charm of the Raymond 
yet. We have made new discoveries each day," exclaimed 
Judith. " Every improvement that modern hotel science 
could suggest, or money supply, has been introduced. The 
spacious grounds — fifty-five acres, think of that, exhibit 
the handsomest and most elaborate results possible in the 
way of landscape gardening. There are ornamental foun- 
tains, rose, palm, and cactus gardens, tennis courts, children's 
playgrounds, croquet grounds, swings, bowling alleys, beneath 
an arbor of trailing vines, and other features. There are also 
a large orange grove and a sloping lawn diversified with 
flowers and shrubs. Among the trees which adorn the long 
slopes are the pepper, eucalyptus, or Australian gum, pine, 
cypress, sycamore, giant redwood, olive, date, palm, banana, 
pomegranate, guava, Japanese persimmon, umbrella, maple, 
elm, locust, English walnut, birch, ailantus, poplar, willow, 
and a great variety of ornamental shrubs. Several green- 
houses and a nursery on one side of the hill are stocked with 
many thousands of the rarest and most beautiful plants." 

"You spoke about the umbrella tree," said Jennie. 
" Pray what kind of a tree is that ? " 

"The umbrella tree," said Joan learnedly, "is a native 
of Japan [^Melia Speciosd). It has a straight, slender trunk, 
with compact foliage of dark green leaves, resembling some- 
what those of the ash. No tree makes a denser shade. It is 
a fairly quick grower, making a crown more than a rod across 

145 



when seven years old. In spring it is literally covered with 
small lilac flowers which emit a delicate perfume." 

" Think of an umbrella emitting a delicate perfume I " 
said Jennie. 

" Or with a crown more than a rod across," added Julia.* 

" But tell us about your trip to San Francisco," remarked 
Joan. 

" It can't be told," replied Jennie, " the trip from Sacra- 
mento to San Francisco is a revelation. I felt like Alice in 
Wonderland, everything was new and strange and lovely, and 
when San Francisco was reached I was in such a state of 
delight that I had no words to express my feelings. San 
Francisco is the Paris of America. It is full of life and light 
and beauty. Golden Gate Park, Sutro Park, the magnificent 
bay, the Golden Gate, the great ocean, seal rocks, and hun- 
dreds of points of interest claimed our attention and aroused 
our enthusiasm. I tell you, girls, we've made a mistake. We 
should have planned a six months' stay in California and I 
for one will never be satisfied until I realize that experience." 

For six perfect days the young ladies lingered at the 
Raymond. Each day filled with excursions to the many 
points of interest which abound in the vicinity of Pasadena 
and Los Angeles, then they bade that delightful region a re- 
gretful farewell and turned their faces northward on their 
homeward journey. In order to enjoy new experiences the 
return was made by the way of the Central and Northern 
Pacific lines to Billings, Montana, from which point the Bur- 
lington route extends to Omaha and Chicago. 

Montana although one of the newest of lands so far as 
the advance of modern life is concerned, is yet historic, for 
on its ground made sacred by heroic sacrifice, fell brave Cus- 
ter and his men. Only two hours and a half ride from 

*Since the above was written the Raymond has been entirely destroyed 
by fire, but the owner has perfected plans for its rebuilding on a grander 
and more perfect scale of magnificence than ever. The hotel will be com- 
pleted and ready for use by the opening of the next excursion season. — Ed- 
itor. 

146 




A California Reminiscence. 
147 



Billings, brought the young ladies to the Crow Agency and the 
scene of Custer's fight and fall. The party broke their journey 
here for one day to do honor to the memor}' of the great 
Custer, by visiting the scene of his tragic death. In 1SV6 
befell the sad event which shall never pass from the memory 
of man. In the words of Professor Wheeler " Here it was 
that Custer fell into that fatal trap, and here it was that Rain- 
in-the-Face wreaked his revenge on the invader of his rocky 
refuge : 

" In that desolate land and lone 
Where rolls the Yellowstone." 

"Here feats of valor were performed that deserve to be 
chronicled with those of Leonidas at Thermopylae but which 
met with a more tragic and awful reward. On the banks of 
the Rosebud death lurked, and no strength of will, no desper- 
ate courage, no wiliest strategy could defeat him. 

"The history of that awful da}^ is written in blood, and 
the memory of the heroism that was there displayed, shall 
never pass away from earth. 

" At the northern end of a rather prominent ridge a slight 
knoll rises and we can discern that there is even something 
more than this. It is the Custer monument, planted on the 
most commanding point of the ridge, and at the spot where 
Custer and most of his officers and men went down. There 
Custer himself, Yates, Smith, Tom Custer, Cook, and others 
fell together. 

" The battlefield is now a national cemetery, and at dif- 
ferent spots in it interments have been made of soldiers who 
were killed in the Northwest in other Indian fights. Man}' 
bodies originally interred at old Fort Phil Kearne}', Wyo- 
ming, Fort C. F. Smith and Fort Shaw, Montana, have been 
reinterred here. 

" Since the battle this country has been given to the 
Crow Indians, and a fine reservation it makes. Within a 
couple of miles of the battle monument is located the agency, 
which makes quite a settlement. The two most conspicuous 
objects are the flagstaff, with the stars and stripes flying, and 

14S 




Plpnge Bath, Hot 



Snnil 1 i.xKo'i A. 



a fine brick schoolhouse. Besides the agent and his clerical 
force, there are also a number of teachers, a physician, and 
the usual necessary employes. A tavern, two or three stores, 
and several dwelling houses are also found. Indian police 
are constantly on duty, but find little of a disagreeable nature 
to keep them employed." 

Resuming their journey with feelings tinged with sad- 
ness, but soon rising with the buoyanc}' of youth, the unat- 
tended ones were on the t/ui vive to behold the novel scenes of 
this strange new land. On entering Wyoming their attention 
was called by the Pullman conductor to the fact that there 
were now passing through one of the richest agricultural re- 
gions of the Great West. " Sheridan County," said he " is now 
attracting wide attention, its resources being truly wonder- 
ful. The county is 100 miles long by thirty wide, and has an 
area of 3,000 square miles. It has 1,980,000 acres, of which 
640,000 are agricultural, 960,000 grazing and 380,000 timber 
and mountain country." 

149 



In order to secure one more experience of the delights of 
mountain health resorts, the party made a side trip over a 
branch of the Burlington Route to the Hot Springs, of South 
Dakota. Standing at the threshold of the Black Hills, there 
could be no more favorable location for a summer and winter 
resort than Hot Springs. Embosomed as it is within the 
Hills, picturesquely placed upon Fall river, with an altitude 
of 3,500 feet (2,500 feet higher than Chicago), the atmosphere 
is at once clear, pure and dry, absolutely free from malaria, 
and the miasmatic vapors which now and then spread over 
less elevated places. The air, freighted with the scent of the 
great pine and spruce forests that are the crowning beauty 
of the Hills, giving them a kaleidoscopic charm that is 
possessed by no other portion of the Northwest, appeals 
strangely to the men and women who, in this work a-day 
world, need just such a tonic as found at Hot Springs. When 
the dog star rules the world, when all is hot and muggy and 
life seems a pall, thousands of favored mortals in need of the 
medicinal qualities of the springs or sweet, pleasant rest, turn 
their steps toward this new resort in the Black Hills, and 
meet there the delight of living. 

Over Mammoth Spring, but a short distance from the 
principal hotels, in the north part of the city, a magnificent 
plunge bath, 50 x 250 feet, has been built of stone, iron and 
wood, and provided with all the conveniences and apparatus 
of the most famous natatoriums in the world. The water in 
this colossal bath tub, which contains 800,000 gallons, and 
varies in depth from four to eight feet, is never still, as it rushes 
out through an orifice at the south end of the building at the 
rate of 100,000 gallons per hour. 

As to bath houses, Hot Springs finds itself splendidly 
equipped. First in importance is the new house recently 
built by the management of the Hotel Evans, and adjoining 
the " Palace Resort Hotel of the West," by a covered pas- 
sageway. It is of pink sandstone, three stories in height and 
conforms in architecture to the hotel, of which it is a part. 
It is equipped with the most modern appliances for adminis- 

150 



tering spray, electric, vapor, salt, needle ctnd tub baths, and 
is in charge of a medical director of established reputation. 
In addition, there are magnificent Turkish and Russian baths 
for ladies and gentlemen, the water being supplied through 
pipes from the Minnekahta Spring only a hundred yards or 
so away. There are also the Stewart bath house, the Hot 
Springs House and Sanitarium baths and the bath house in 
connection with the Catholicon Hotel. 

The hotels of Hot Springs are many and excellent. The 
young ladies were guests at the Evans, which leads in point 
of beauty, spaciousness and cuisine, is a mammoth five-story 
structure of pink sandstone, architecturall}' perfect in that all 
the rooms are " outside " rooms. It is capable of accommo- 
dating 300 guests. The Gillespie, immediately opposite the 
Evans, across Fall River, is second in size and importance, 
having accommodations for 125 persons. The Hot Springs 
House has good accommodations for seventy guests. In 
addition to these there are the Parrott, Davis, Avenue, Fer- 
guson, Dudlc}' and Catholicon. 

After resting two days at the Hot Springs the young 
ladies resumed their journey. 

"Now," said Judith, "We are reall}' homeward bound, 
no more stops until Omaha is reached and then we will have 
to say good by." 

All too soon they realized that their trip was nearing its 
end and yet when the porter announced "Omaha! change 
cars for Lincoln, Denver, Kansas City and St. Louis," 
the girls were in a flutter of excitement. Tears were 
in evidence, kisses were exchanged. They all disembarked, 
although Judith was going through to Chicago on the Bur- 
lington, and standing in a group on the depot platform con- 
tinued their lengthened farewell. 

"Well, good-by, dears," exclaimed Judith. 

"Good-by, you old darling," replied the rest in chorus. 

" Good-by, Joan." 

" Good-by, Judith." 

" Be sure to write." 

151 



"Yes, I will, good-by Jennie." 

" Good-by Julia." 

" You'll all come to see me in September ? " 

"Yes, sure, good-by Jennie." 

" And next }'ear we'll take this unattended journey all 
over again ? " 

"Indeed we will. Good-by." 

" Good-by." 

"Wait a minute. When we go again we'll stay a month 
in Denver." 

"Yes, and a month in Colorado Springs." 

"Yes, and two months in Manitou." 

"Right you are, and two months in Glenwood Springs." 

" Yes, and two months at Salt Lake." 

" Sure, and a month in San Francisco." 

" Certainly, and a month in Pasadena." 

"Of course, and a month in Hot Springs." 

"Won't that be jolly? and a month" 

"Hold on, girls!" said Judith, "If you stop a month 
longer any where you'll have used up the whole year and left 
no time to go and come in. Good gracious! my train's 
moving. 1 jmist go. Good-by." 

"Good-by! " 

" Good-by ! " 

"Good-bv!" 




■"'*""""'' 



152 



NDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 



A Typical Chicago Street Frontispiece 

An KIkliorn Monument. Estes Park, Colorado, 5o miles from Denver. Burlington 

Route y 

Fall Kiver, Estes Park, Colorado. Burlington Route u 

Teton Range from the Rast. Burlington Route I2 

.Among the Foot-Hills, Estes Park, Colorado. Burlington Route 13 

Estes Cone, Estes Park, Colorado. Burlington Route i. 

Devil's Slide. Union Pacific System, near Ogden J5 

Tunnel No. 3. Weber Cafion, Utah. On Union Pacific System 16 

Bluffs of Green River. Union Pacific System 17 

From the Union Depot up Seventeenth Street, Denver Colo. Population 175,000. 

Altitude 5,285 feet iS 

Cathedral Spires. Garden of the Gods, near Manitou, Colo ig 

Gateway Garden of the Gods. D. & R. G. R. R., Looking West. Pike's Peak in the 

Distance 20 

Balanced Rock, Garden of the Gods, Manitou, Colo 21 

The Grave of H. H., Cheyenne Mountain, 7 miles from Colorado Springs 22 

Manitou Springs, Colo., 80 miles from Denver, via Denver & Rio Grande R. R. 

Elevation 6,324 feet 23 

Cog Railroad up Pike's Peak, Manitou, Colo 24 

Pike's Peak, Cog Wheel R. R. Timber Line 25 

Mother Judy, Monument Park, 9 miles from Colorado Springs, Colo 26 

Summit of Pike's Peak, 88 miles from Denver. Elevation 14.714 feet 27 

Pike's Peak Avenue, Colorado Springs, Colo. On Denver & Rio Grande R. R. Ant- 
ler's Hotel at Base of Pike's Peak 28 

High Bridge of the Loop above Georgetown, Colo. Union Pacific, Denver & Gulf 

R. R 29 

Amphitheater, Williams Cafion, Manitou, Colo 30 

The Loop. Union Pacific, Denver & Gulf R. R., near Silver Plume, Colo 31 

Ute Paso, Manitou, Colo. The Old Indian Trail to the Springs 32 

Green Lake, above Georgetown, Colo. Union Pacific, Denver & Gulf R. R., near the 

Loop 32 

The Snowy Range from the Arkansas Valley near Buena \'ista. Denver, Leadville 

& Gunnison R. R 33 

Railroad Cut Thrown Out with One Blast. On the Florence & Cripple Creek R. R.. 34 

Entrance to Cripple Creek Cafion. On the Florence iS: Cripple Creek R. R 35 

Sail Ship Rocks, Platte Cafion, near Denver. On the I^enver, Leadville & Gunnison 

R. R 36 

Gold Miner's Cabin, Cripple Creek, Colo 37 

Rotunda of Mineral Palace, Pueblo, Colo. The Palace was Erected at a Cost of 

S250.000, and Contains a Magnificent Mineral Exhibit 38 

" Old King Cole ;" Statue made of Colorado Coal, and Placed in the Mineral Palace, 

Pueblo. Colo 39 

Trout Fishing, Wagon Wheel Gap, Colo 41 

Wagon Wheel Gap, Colo. On Denver & Rio Grande R. R. Elevation 8.449 feet. 

Distance from Denver 311 miles. Health and Pleasure Resort. Hot Springs of 

Great Medicinal Qualities 41 

Toltac Gorge. Denver & Rio Grande R. R., near Alamosa, Colo. Train is Shown 

Entering Tunnel near Summit of Peak at Right. Height of Walls, 1,800 feet 43 

Phantom Curve. Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, near Alamosa, Colo 45 

Cafion of the Rio Las Animas. D. & R. G. R. R. Silverton Branch. The Animas 

River is Shown F'l owing between Walls 1.500 feet high 46 

Needle Mountains from .Vninias Cafion. Distance from Denver 483 miles 47 

Uneva Lake, Colo. On Denver, Leadville it Gunnison R. R 49 

Mt. Abrams on Toll Road Irontown to Ouray 50 

Ouray, Colo., Gold and Silver Mining Town. Elevation 7,721 feet. Distance from 

Denver 3S9 miles 50 

Lake San Cristoval, near Lake City, Colo 51 

The Tree in the Rock. Florence S: Cripple Creek R. R 52 

"Big Bend." on the Ouray and Silverton Toll Road. This Wagon Road was made 

through Mountains at an Expense of Sioo.ooo a mile, where Difficult Rock Work 

was Done 53 

Sultan Mountain and Baker's Park, with Silverton in the Distance. Elevation 9,224 

feet. Distance from Denver, 495 miles. Population 2,500 55 

Cliff Dweller's Home, Mesa Verde. Rio Grande Southern R. R 56 

Cliff Palace, Mesa \'erde. Rio Grande Southern R. R 57 

Burro Train Transporting Timbers for the Mines, Silverton, Colo 58 



Ophir Loop. Rio Grande Southern R. R 59 

The Royal Gorge. Grand Cafion of the Arkansas. On the Denver & Rio Grande 

R. R. Height of Walls, 2,627 feet. The Climax of Awful Grandeur. Length 7 

miles. Distance from Denver 163 miles 60 

Upper Twin Lakes, near Leadville, Colo. Denver & Rio Grande R. R 61 

Entrance to Brown's Palace 62 

Curricante Needle. Black Cafion of the Gunnison. On Denver & Rio Grande R. R. 

Height of Walls, 2,500 feet. Length of Cafion, 14 miles. Distance from Denver 

350 miles 64 

Marshall Pass, Mount Ouray in the Distance. Elevation 10,856 feet. Distance from 

Denver 224 miles. Length of Pass, 36 miles 65 

Monte Cristo Hotel, Salida, Colo 66 

Eagle River Canon. Through Line Rio Grande R. R. Near Red Cliff. Mines and 

Tramways for Transporting Ore Shown in the Engraving. Distance from Denver 

300 miles 67 

Monnt of the Holy Cross. Near Leadville. On the Denver & Rio Grande R. R 68 

Walls of the Cafion of Grand River. Denver & Rio Grande R. R 69 

Rounding the Curve. Cafion of Grand River. Denver & Rio Grande R. R 70 

Second Tunnel, Cafion of the Grand River. Denver cV Rio Grande R. R 71 

Hotel Colorado and Bath House, Glenvvood Springs, Colo. Health and Pleasure 

Resort. Hotel and Bathing Pool and Pavilion Erected at a Cost of over Half a 

Million Dollars 73 

Castle Gate. Rio Grande Western R. R 74 

Long Bridge over the Grand River, at Grand Junction, Colo. Rio Grande Western 

R. R 77 

Provo Falls, Utah. Rio Grande Western R. R 78 

Cafion of Grand River. Rio Grande Western R. R 80 

Lookout Rocks, Cafion of Grand River. Rio Grande Western R. R 81 

Half Tunnel, Cafion of the Grand River. Rio Grande Western 82 

Temple Block, Salt Lake City, showing Mormon Temple, the Great Tabernacle and 

Assemblv Hall 84 

The Knutsfo'rd Hotel, Salt Lake City, Utah 85 

Saltair, South Front of Pavilion, The Noted Bathing Resort, Salt Lake. Rio Grande 

Western R. R 86 

American Natural Gas and Oil Co.'s Wells. Output 12.000,000 cubic feet daily. 

Great Salt Lake, Utah 87 

Garfield Beach and Great Salt Lake, Utah, from the Cave. On Union Pacific System 88 

Castilla Springs Health Resort, Spanish Fork Cafion. Rio Grande Western R. R.... 88 

Main Street, Ogden, Utah. On Union Pacific System 89 

Liberty Cap. Mammoth Hot Springs. Yellowstone Park reached via L'nion Pacific 

System 91 

Ames Monument, Sherman, Wyo. On the Union Pacific System 92 

Giant's Tea Kettle, Green River, Wyo. On Union Pacific System 93 

Witches Rock, Weber Cafion, Utah. On Union Pacific 94 

The Star Geyser, Yellowstone National Park, Wyo. Union Pacific System 96 

Green River, Buttes, Wyo. Union Pacific System 97 

Yellowstone Canon. Yellowstone National Park. Reached via Union Pacific 

System 98 

Pulpit Terraces, Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone National Park. Reached via 

Union Pacific System 99 

Great Shoshone Falls, Idaho. Reached via Union Pacific System 100 

Great Shoshone Falls, Idaho, Looking down the Cafion. Reached via Union Pacific 

System loi 

Castle Crags. Southern Pacific R. R 102 

El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, Cal. Reached via the Soutiiern Pacific R. R 103 

L'mbreUa Tree, Pasadena, Cal 104 

Date Palm, Pasadena, Cal 105 

Market Street, San Francisco, Cal 107 

The Prize Tallyho, The Raymond, Pasadena, Cal 108 

The Raymond,' Pasadena, Cal 109 

Magnolia Avenue, Riverside, Cal 110 

Midway Point, Cypress Drive, Monteroy, Cal 113 

Mt. Shasta, California, Altitude 14,440 feet. Reached via Shasta Route. Southern 

Pacific R, R 116 

Spearfish Cafion. On the Burlington Route 118 

Spearfish Falls, South Dakota. On Burlington Route 121 

Crow Indian Agency, South Dakota. On Burlington Route 123 

Graves of Soldiers on the Field where Custer Fell 126 

David Davis Arm Chair. Burlington Route 128 

Horseshoe Curve, near Custer, South Dakota. Burlington Route 130 

Town Hot Springs. Hotel 134 

Sylvan Lake, near Custer, South Dakota. Burlington Route 136 

The Entrance to Wind Cave, Hot Springs, South Dakota. Burlington Route 139 

Teepee, or Devil's Tower, Wyo. Burlington Route 143 

A California Reminiscence i47 

Plunge Bath, Hot Springs, South Dakota i49 



The antlers 

...Qolorado ^pr\^<^s, QdIo... 




COLORADO SPRINGS stands easily at the head of the resort cities of the Rocky 
Mountain region. In the extent, variety and magnificence of the scenery by 
which it is environed, it is witliout a rival on tlie American continent and jiossi- 
bly upon tlie globe ; while its superb climate, which had made it the Mecca of 
health-seekers from every part of Christendom, It'uds an addition.Tl charm to the pleasure 
and satisfaction with which these wonders of scenery are viewed by the tourist. To fully 
enumerate these, much less to describe them, however briefly, is impossible here ; it must 
suffice to say that in the iuimediate vicinity of Colorado Springs and within easy riding 
or driving distance are such world-famous scenic wonders as the Garden of the Gods, 
Glen Eyrie, Monument Park, Manitou Springs and I'te Pass, together with a half-dozen 
stupendous and awe-inspiring canons and the ijroadnioor Casino ; while towering above 
all is groat Pike's Peak, whose snowy summit may be gained by burro or pony over one 
of the several trails, by a four-in-hand over a finely constructed roadway, or in the hand- 
some trains of the cogwheel railroad. 

The Antlers. Colorado Springs' foremost hotel, occupies a commanding position 
upon the western edge of the city and in full view of t'.ie great mountain range dominated 
by Pike's Peak. It is an iuiposing and strikingly handsome structure of cut stone, five 
stories in height and containing two hundred guest rooms. Provided with every appliance 
known to modern hotel construction, including electric light, steam he.-it. elevator, etc., 
and conducted with a generous appreciation of the requirements of first-class tourist 
travel, it has during the jiast ten years earned an enviable reputation among the thousands 
from all parts of the world who annually visit Colorado Springs. Its furnishings are ele- 
gant throughout and in perfect taste, and its cuisine is unexcelled. In brief, it ranks with 
the foreuiost hotels of the land, matching and supplementing in a fitting manner the 
supreme attractions of the Pike's Peak region in the midst of wliich it is situated. 
For all information, address 

B. BARA'BTr, 

The Antlers, Colorado Springs, Colo- 




ti.ii.TflnnEri 

nBNVBR ^y^ 

COLO... ■'H^ 



TO ALL READERS of this I extend an invitation to visit my 
establishment. 

I HAVE A LARGE, elegantly furnished museum, as the illus- 
tration of the interior of mj' salesroom shows. 

YOU ARE INVITED to spend all day, an hour, or everyday, 
and no one will even ask you to make a purchase. 

YOU WILL SEE gold ores, silver ores, copper, iron and many 
others in the various forms as they are dug up in the Rocky 
Mountains ; crude and made into odd novelties. 

OPALSi RUBIES, Garnet, and a world of beautiful gem stones, 
ready to be set in jewelry and all mounted up. 

INDIAN RELICS; not only the ancient things found in the 
ruins of the cliff dwellers, but blankets, beaded work and 
curios, pottery, made by the Indian of to-da3\ 

A DISPLAY OF AGATES, in the rough and polished, made into 
all sort of things — button hooks, charms, chains, hat pins, etc. 

ELK, LION, DEER, antelope and buffalo heads— yes, '2()0 of 
them decorate my walls. 

THERE ARE IO,0O0 DIFFERENT THINGS I'm glad to 
show you. If you don't visit me send a stamp for my great 
illustrated catalog. Be sure and always remember the name. 

H. H. TAMMEN, r^T.Z'.lWk DENVER, COLO. 

DON'T FORGET ABOUT THE CATALOG. 






Solid l/esti 



VIA- 



CHICAGO & GMND TWNK 

AND 

GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY 

THE MOST DELIGHTFUL 

Chicago ... fieux 

VIA THE FAMOUS ST. CLAIR TUNNEL, 

Crossing the celebrated Grand Ry. Sus 
via the Lehigh Valley Railroad through 



Limited Express No. 4, leaving Chicago, Dearborn Station, via 
buled Train to New York and Philadelphia. The train runs daily. 
Car, first-class Passenger Coaches and Pullman Buffet Sleeping Cars, 
BULED, is lighted by i as, heated by steam, and contains all improve 
train leaves New York, via LEHIGH VALLEY K. R.,6:00p.m ; leaves 
leaves Niagara Falls, via GRAND TRUNK RY., 7:05 a. m., and arrives 



Map showing the Route o* the Solid Vestibuled Train between Chicatfo, New 
Yorit and Philadelphia, via CHICAGO & GRAND TRUNK RY., GRAND TRUNK 
RY., and the LEHIGH VALLEY RAILROAD, sent for the asking. Address 
Passenger Agent nearest to you. 



buledJraipW? 



Ar<E) THE 




...PICTURESQUE... 

LEHIGH VdLLEy UmJ 

SCENIC ROUTE BETWEEN 

York .. Philadelphia 



THE WORLD RENOWNED NIAGARA FALLS 

pension Bridge in broad daylight, thence 
the "SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA." 



Chicago iS; Grand Trunk Ry., at 3:10 p m,, is a Through Solid Vesti- 
Sundays included, and consists of a Combination Baggage and Smoking 
with Dining Car attached. THE ENTIRE TRAIN IS VESTI- 
ments lately introduced in modern railway equipment. Returning, this 
Philadelphia, via PHILADELPHIA & READING R. R., G:45 p. m ; 
at Chiago, via CHICAGO & GRAND TRUNK RY., at 9:10 p. m. 



W. E. DAVIS, N. J. POWER, CHAS. S. LEE, 

General Passenger Agent. General Passenger Agent, General Passenger Agent. 

CHIC. & GRAND TRUNK RY. GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY, LEHIGH VALLEY RAILROAD, 

CHICAGO ILL. MONTREAL, CAN. PHILADELPHIA, PA. 




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W 107 89 












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HECKMAN 
IINDERY INC. |§ 

^ NOV 89 

S=t^ N. MANCHESTFR 






